Three Days of Castles and Wine in the Loire Valley

France certainly doesn’t have a shortage of castles. I’d go so far as to say the country is lousy with castles and manors and châteaus (or chateaux if you’re going for the French) in every size.

When it was time for my mother to visit us after our move to France, I knew a trip to the Loire Valley would be in order. The woman loves costume dramas more than anything else and may have more fun facts about royals than anyone I know.

It just so happens that I also love a good castle, and the Loire Valley did not disappoint in that regard. It’s scenic as heck and a hub for delicious wine, too.

Let’s get into everything we got up to on this Loire Valley itinerary for three days of castle-hopping fun.

How many days should you spend in the Loire Valley?

You need at least two days in the Loire Valley to visit a few of the region’s most opulent aristocratic estates.

On a three-day Loire Valley itinerary, you can indulge in the other thing the valley is known for: wine. The Loire Valley is almost as well-known for its wine production as it is for its pleasure palaces.

If you’re only in the Loire Valley on a day trip from Paris, you can still have a charming trip to see one of the big châteaux. Follow that up with lunch in a French brasserie or vineyard in one of the small towns along the Loire River.

What is the best base for the Loire Valley?

The best base to explore the Loire Valley is Amboise, especially if it’s your first time here. If you overnight in town, you’ll be within walking distance of the Château Royal d’Amboise and the Château du Clos Lucé, two impressive sites in the region.

How to Get to the Loire Valley

Traveling from Paris to the Loire Valley and Amboise is easy. It’s about two hours and 30 minutes to Amboise from Paris in light traffic.

I’d recommend driving if you can to give yourself some flexibility. That’s what we did, and it was nice to move around the region on our schedule without having to bother with transit schedules. (You can add time in Brittany if you’re so inclined that way, too!)

Note: Parking is easy at the châteaux, too, although some do require that you pay for parking.

If you love the idea of public transportation, you can take the train from Paris to Amboise for a journey of just under two hours. You can get to Blois, another popular base in the region, in just over an hour and 30 minutes with the direct option.

If you’re a day tripper looking for some whimsy on your trip to Paris, both of those are easy options for you. The trains in France are great. We just wanted that added layer of flexibility to get from one stop to the next with ease on our multi-day Loire trip.

Tto take the guesswork out of your Loire Valley itinerary, a guided tour is another option. These are pricey, but a nice option for folks who don’t want to drive and worry about tolls, finding open gas stations on Sundays, and navigating winding roads.

Here are a few highly-rated options that include both castle stops and wine tour fun:

Want to do something truly bucket list-worthy? Book a hot air balloon ride over the Loire Valley.

Loire Valley Itinerary: Day 1

I assume you’re starting in Paris on your Loire Valley itinerary. If that’s the case, start as early as you need to so that you get to the first château right when it opens. That may mean a croissant on the go, which is never an issue in this house.

Stop 1: Château de Chambord

As your introduction to the Loire Valley, the Château de Chambord definitely has that wow factor on the approach. This is the biggest château in the Loire Valley.

It gets less impressive from here, so take it all in while you can. Enjoy the French formal gardens. Walk the grounds. Snap your glamour shots.

I’m not saying this one is hideous on the inside. It’s just covered in heads of dead animals, and that doesn’t make me feel very fancy on castle tours.

There’s a reason you’ll be staring wild boars and stags in the face on your tour of this. It was commissioned by King François I as a hunting lodge.

That’s right. This was the king’s lodge when he was out in the surrounding woods doing his thing. You’ll see signage warning you about the potential for wild boar on the road approaching the property, although I can’t say we were lucky enough to see any.

Note: Tours are self-guided unless you book something otherwise. I didn’t feel like that was necessary, but I like reading up on places before and after when I’m hanging about in my pajama pants and sipping tea.

Tickets are available online ahead of your visit. It wasn’t busy on our trip, but this is a popular one in the spring and summer months. If the weather’s nice, expect to spend at least a few hours here.

Stop 2: Lunch

We had sandwiches packed to enjoy after walking and exploring the grounds of the Château de Chambord. I’d highly recommend you do the same, especially if it’s a nice day out. There’s nothing that hits quite like a French baguette sandwich.

If you didn’t plan ahead, there are several casual eateries near the castle with unimpressive reviews. Overpay for mid tourist-centered food at your own risk.

READ MORE: If it’s your first time in France, start here with my detailed planning guide.

Optional Stop 3: Château de Cheverny

Castle-hopping takes some stamina, and you started the day off with a big one. If you’re spent and ready for some wine, skip to the next part. If you have a hankering for more, the Château de Cheverny is the most convenient one on the way to Amboise.

Château de Cheverny is known for its elegant interiors, manicured gardens, and connection to Tintin. The castle inspired Marlinspike Hall (Château de Moulinsart), the stately home of Captain Haddock in The Adventures of Tintin.

Hergé, the creator of Tintin, based the fictional château’s design directly on Cheverny. He just removed the two outer wings to create the iconic silhouette.

Fun fact: You’ll see a shoutout to Tintin with an exhibition inside, including scenes from The Secret of the Unicorn and Red Rackham’s Treasure.

Stop 4: Plou & Fils

This one may show up as Guillaume and Mathieu PLOU on your maps. Visiting Plou & Fils offers your first taste of the Loire Valley’s winemaking heritage. This family-run estate has roots dating back to 1508.

Tours of the winery and cellars and tastings are free, but there is a subtle understanding that you’ll leave here with a bottle of wine. That’s never been a problem for me, and bottles here are quite affordable.

Contact them online if you want to make sure they’re open when you visit, as this is France after all. You don’t need reservations to taste their wines. If it’s springtime, you’ll want to try their rosé sec.

Stop 5: Amboise

We spend our first night in Amboise. If you’re visiting the Loire Valley for the first time, it’s a great option for easy access to the region’s best castles.

You have the rest of the afternoon and into the evening to explore the town, but leave its castles for day two. You’ll want to be fresh for those.

Don’t miss the Église Saint-Florentin, an understated church overlooking the Loire. Built in the late 15th century by order of King Louis XI, it once served the royal court. During the Revolution, it was repurposed and fell into disrepair, but it has since been restored.

The river views are the highlight, but there’s some essential history at play here, too.

Leonardo da Vinci’s dying wish was to be buried at this church. After damage during the French Revolution and then again by Napoleon I, his bones were moved to the Chapel of Saint-Hubert. We’ll get into that one soon.

For dinner, stick to central Amboise. We liked L’Ecluse, but you’ll need a reservation. They have a menu of the week, so you can expect everything you’re served to be fresh and delicious.

Loire Valley Itinerary: Day 2

Get to know Leonardo da Vinci on a more intimate level on your second day in the Loire Valley. Again, your second day in the region doesn’t involve breakfast. You’re all adults. Feed and caffeinate yourself as necessary for another busy day.

Stop 1: Château Royal d’Amboise

We had some pretty awful weather at this one, but as this is an essential stop in Amboise, we persisted. This Renaissance castle was once a favored royal residence in these parts, hosting French kings from Charles VIII to Francis I.

The château blends Gothic and early Renaissance styles, with panoramic views all around that you should brave even if the weather is garage.

Perhaps most notably, it houses the tomb of Leonardo da Vinci in its Saint-Hubert Chapel. Unfortunately, the chapel was under renovation during our visit, so we weren’t able to see much other than the scaffolding.

Apparently, it’s been brought back to its former glory at this point, so I’ll have to plan a return trip to check it out!

We booked tickets ahead of time, but they weren’t necessary in the off-season. Tickets are untimed if you’d like to nab some anyway. Expect to spend a few hours at this one.

Stop 2: Lunch

Assuming you skipped breakfast, you’ll likely be ready to eat after your first castle of the day. We really liked Chez Bruno, a recommendation from a winemaker in Amboise.

They say reservations are a necessity, even at lunch, but we had no trouble walking in for a table midday during the off-season. Giving them a call during the busier months is likely wise.

Treat yourself to their three-course menu to fuel up for the rest of the day. They had a seafood salad as an appetizer during our visit that hit the spot. I love all of the fishy things.

Stop 3: Château du Clos Lucé

This Renaissance manor is just a short walk from the Château Royal d’Amboise, but I wanted to feed you first so that you don’t feel rushed here.

The Château du Clos Lucé is most famous as the final residence of da Vinci, who was invited to live here by King Francis I. He stayed from 1516 until his death in 1519.

The château today has the impressive exterior you’d expect in the Loire Valley, but it’s also a museum celebrating da Vinci’s life and genius. He was more than an artist. He was an inventor with a keen interest in architecture and science.

The surrounding gardens bring his sketches to life with full-scale working models, so your visit here is an interactive experience. We loved it, especially because there was a lot of learning involved. I didn’t know his interests were so diverse!

Stop 4: Caves Ambacia

Follow up your day of castles in Amboise with a visit to this historic cellar, established in 1463. The operation you’ll visit today has existed in a similar way since 1874, when the Duhard family decided to trade a life in the cooper profession for winemaking.

There is an on-site bistro here, but we stuck to the wine. Cellar tours and wine tastings are available by appointment.

Stop 5: Amboise

Return to your accommodations in Amboise for a break or explore more of the town before you leave in the morning.

Take a walk along the riverfront if it’s not too gray or pick up some sweets for later from Patisserie Chocolaterie Bigot, my favorite chocolate shop in town.

We were quite full from lunch this day, so we grabbed some snacks at Boulangerie Pâtisserie Girondon. La Planque was on our list for burgers if you’d like a casual meal.

Loire Valley Itinerary: Day 3

I’ll allow a more leisurely morning today because you’ll have some wine to taste at your first stop. Visit Patisserie Chocolaterie Bigot if you haven’t yet for coffee and sweet treats. L’Horloge is another popular option.

The Château de Chenonceau is just under 20 minutes from Amboise, so you really don’t need to rush.

Stop 1: Château de Chenonceau

I saved the best for last on our trip to the Loire Valley. The Château de Chenonceau is an absolute stunner, which all makes sense when you realize there were ladies involved with this one.

This one owes much of its beauty and history to influential women. It was built by Thomas Bohier under the watchful eye of his wife, Katherine Briçonnet, and expanded by Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of Henry II.

After he died in 1559, his widow, Catherine de’ Medici, took over and sent the mistress packing to Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Fun fact: She didn’t stay at the new place often, but it’s not because it was terrible. She preferred hanging out at a different château in Anet. It wasn’t that big of a punishment.

Their legacies shaped the elegant design of the castle’s interiors and gardens. You’ll want to spend some time walking the grounds, as this one is even more evocative from the outside.

Tickets are dated and timed if you’d like to grab yours in advance. We purchased ours a few days before our visit, but I imagine this one gets very busy in the summertime.

Stop 2: Cave des Dômes

You’re not leaving the castle grounds yet. Visit the ​Cave des Dômes within the château for a wine-tasting experience beneath the property’s 16th-century vaulted ceilings.

You can walk in for guided tastings every day from mid-March to mid-November without prior booking. The château’s vineyards, cultivated since the Renaissance and expanded by de’ Medici in 1550, produce wines that reflect centuries of tradition.

At least that’s what I was told. I just like sipping on the stuff.

Stop 3: Lunch

Despite a fancy time at the Château de Chenonceau, we wanted the opposite for lunch, opting for crêpes at Crêperie Le Médicis in Chenonceaux. Service is no-nonsense, but greet staff with the “bonjour” I’m sure you’ve practiced and you’ll be fine.

Their galettes were the best part of our meal, although you better believe we always finish with something sweet in France.

Optional Stop 4: More Castles

We hit the road from here, as it was nearly three hours back to our home in Saint-Germain-en-Laye from Chenonceaux. Don’t let me stop you from a good time if you don’t mind a later arrival.

Here are a few more castles within a short drive of the Château de Chenonceau. I haven’t tested these out, but they’re all on my list for return trips:

• Château de Loches: This one dates back to the 9th century. It’s known for its links to Joan of Arc and Agnès Sorel, the mistress of Charles VII of France.
• Château de Montpoupon: This fortified castle was originally a medieval fortress. It was destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War anyway, then rebuilt.
• Château de Montrichard: This 11th-century castle is mostly ruins now, but I’m including it here because it’s so close to the Château de Chenonceau.
• Château de Nitray: This is another option with vineyards on-site. Once you’re done touring its stone walls, enjoy a wine tasting on the property.
• Château de Valmer: This is more of a wine estate and hotel than a castle you’ll tour, but the grounds look absolutely beautiful.

When to Visit the Loire Valley

The best time to visit the Loire Valley is in the spring or fall. We visited in March. While the weather was wet in Amboise, the crowds were thin, and the temperatures were mild. I’d imagine May and June are awesome for spring flowers.

READ MORE: Love a springtime escape? Check out this guide to Giverny in April.

Fall is likely a good time, especially during grape harvest season. Avoid summer and around Christmastime unless you love crowds. Hours are more limited during the winter months.

Where to Stay in the Loire Valley

Our overnights were in Amboise, which is a great base for first-time travel to the Loire Valley. Blois is another popular option.

We really liked the Hôtel Le Blason, as they had rooms we could share with my mom. Amboise has lots of options across a variety of budgets, though. Use the map below to browse more options in Amboise:

The Loire Valley is always worth a visit.

If you only have time for one castle, the Château de Chenonceau was our group’s favorite, and my mother can be difficult to please.

While a day in Amboise on your three-day itinerary allows you to see two impressive historical sites, it’s hard to deny the appeal of the ladies’ chateau.

Planning travel elsewhere in France? Check out these guides:

• A Golfer’s Review of Famous Le Golf National
• Planning a Chaotic Day in Marseille
• A Long Weekend Guide to Nice, France
• Tour the Christmas Markets of Strasbourg
• What to Do on Trips to Antibes, France

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• Should You Plan a Trip to Montpellier?
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