Plotting out a Dordogne itinerary for a first-time visit can feel overwhelming. While there isn’t much drive time in between the highlights, it’s not a region that rewards an aggressive approach. It’s something I had to really let go of on a repeat trip here.
Our first trip hit the highlights. We were there to castle-hop and see the medieval villages that fill up our social media feeds. The second, thanks to a trip sponsored by Dordogne Périgord Tourisme, was focused more on a deeper look at the region.
Brian and I still saw incredible things, but it was definitely more about slowing down and taking the region in the French way, with a focus on local food and atmosphere.
This itinerary for three to five days in the Dordogne combines those trips into the ideal plan for travelers here for the first time. You’ll get the hits, but you’ll also get a few surprises that we loved.
If you have more time, I’ll include plenty of options to extend your trip further. The Dordogne is fantastic for slow travel.
Quick Tips for Your Dordogne Visit
Your Flight: Most international travelers will start at Paris Charles de Gaulle, whether you’re on a road trip or taking the train from there. Use Skyscanner to explore your options. Love those deals? Subscribe to Going.
Your Accommodations: Browse Booking.com or Hotels.com for your options in and around Rocamadour. Vrbo is my Airbnb alternative.
Your Ride: You can take trains to the main towns in the region, but the best parts of the Dordogne are spread out. Public transportation between villages is sparse. Book a rental car ahead of time for a flexible trip.
Top Spots: See the views from La Roque-Gageac, tour Château de Biron, and visit fairytale Brantôme.
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3-5 Day Dordogne Itinerary at a Glance
Day 1: Arrival + Valley Views + Sarlat
Ease into the region with the Gardens of Marqueyssac, explore the dramatic hilltop fortress at Château de Beynac, then settle into Sarlat-la-Canéda for your first night.
Day 2: River Villages + Castles + Panoramas
Start early in Sarlat, then follow the Dordogne River through La Roque-Gageac, a second castle, and sweeping views from Domme before returning to base.
Day 3: Troglodyte Dwellings + Bastide Towns + A Castle in the Trees
Go underground in Belvès, walk one of France’s best-preserved medieval market towns, explore the sprawling Château de Biron, and spend the night in a treehouse château.
Day 4: A Star Cave + The Dordogne’s Food Capital + Brantôme
Visit Grotte de Maxanges, eat your way through Périgueux, then wind down in the riverside beauty of Brantôme with an overnight stay.
Day 5: Wine Country + Bergerac + A Farmhouse Farewell
Wine and dine at Vignoble des Verdots, explore the old town in Bergerac, and end the trip at one of the most personal guesthouses in the region.
Short on time?
Stick to Days 1-3 for a strong first trip based around Sarlat and the Dordogne Valley.
Have more time?
Add Days 4-5 for caves, a food city, wine country, and a deeper look at the region beyond the main valley.
Dordogne Itinerary Day 1: Marqueyssac, Beynac, and Sarlat
If you’re coming from Bordeaux on your first day, expect about 2.5 hours on the road, depending on traffic. I promise it’s worth it, especially if you’re a passenger princess like me.
This first day is all about easing into the Dordogne region with some of its best views, a castle big on drama, and an intro to Sarlat-la-Canéda. That’ll be your base for the next couple of nights.
If you’re already feeling overwhelmed, the region is growing as a tourist hub. You have lots of options for guided experiences. Check out a few fun options below:
Stop 1: Gardens of Marqueyssac
Plan to arrive around lunchtime. There’s a small tea room on-site that works well for a light first meal, especially after your long drive.
The menu is simple, but it does the job. We had a big antipasto salad with way too much cheese, and Brian sampled some smoked duck. Portions are generous, which you’ll appreciate if you skipped a proper breakfast.
After lunch, you’re not here for the château itself. It’s fine, but the real draw is the Marqueyssac Gardens.
Winding paths cut through perfectly sculpted boxwood, leading out to a series of viewpoints over the Dordogne Valley. Keep walking past the main belvedere if you have the time. Some of the best views are a bit further out, and the crowds thin quickly.
There’s also a ropes course tucked into the grounds. Things got a little chaotic for us in there, as I seem unable to do anything in a way that isn’t super weird.
Give yourself at least two hours here, especially if you linger at lunch.
Stop 2: Château de Beynac
From Marqueyssac, it’s a short drive (less than 10 minutes) to Beynac. Park at the base and walk your way up through the village if you’re able to.
The climb was part of the experience for us, and the views along the way give you lots of moments to rest as needed.
The interiors of the castle are relatively simple compared to Loire Valley châteaux, but that’s not really the point here, either. This place is about history and setting.
The castle overlooks what’s often called the “Valley of the Five Castles,” and the panoramas are some of the best in the region.
Inside, you’ll find references to Richard the Lionheart and Eleanor of Aquitaine, including rooms tied to their time here.
Grab the audio guide or use your phone to translate the signage. It adds helpful context without slowing you down too much. Plan for about an hour to 90 minutes here.
Stop 3: Sarlat-la-Canéda
From Beynac, it’s about 15-20 minutes to Sarlat. Check into your accommodations, ideally somewhere just outside the medieval center, so you can walk in easily without dealing with tight streets and parking.
We were traveling with my in-laws, and really liked these apartments, as they put us just a five-minute walk from the historical center.
If you’d like to explore your options in town, use the map below:
Once you’re settled, head into town for your first wander. Sarlat is one of those places that feels almost too perfectly preserved to be real. Admire the golden stone buildings, narrow lanes, and small squares that seem made for lingering with a drink.
Make your way toward Place de la Liberté, the heart of the old town. It’s a good spot to pause for an apéro and ease into the slower pace of the region.
Stop 4: Dinner
If you’re arriving a bit later or don’t feel like committing to a full sit-down meal, grabbing something casual works well tonight.
One night, we picked up takeaway from La Calabre, a solid option for thin, fresh pizzas. The catch is timing. There can be a wait, especially if you show up during peak dinner hours, so going right when they open is a smart move.
If you’d prefer to lock something in for tomorrow, take a few minutes tonight to stop by and make a reservation at Gueule & Gosier. It’s a small place that specializes in duck, and it fills up quickly. It was easily our favorite meal in Sarlat.
Dordogne Itinerary Day 2: La Roque-Gageac, Castelnaud, and Domme
Today is your classic Dordogne postcard day. You’ll follow the river west of Sarlat, moving through cliffside villages, castle views, and some of the most photographed landscapes in the region.
Feel free to hang out when it feels right. I love a packed day, but this region is at its best when you’re able to chill out a bit.
Stop 1: Sarlat
Start early in Sarlat before the streets fully wake up.
If it’s market day — those happen on Wednesdays and Saturdays — you can pick up some delights for later if you’re like. The Dordogne is known for its foie gras, walnuts, and truffles.
If the idea of a picnic lunch later strikes your fancy and the weather’s cooperating, grab some baguette sandwiches for a midday break.
Even if it’s not a market day, a short walk through the old town is a nice way to start the day, especially if you’re able to enjoy it before everyone does.
If you need a nosh this morning, grab something simple, like a pastry. I’m a big fan of the walnut cakes in the region.
Stop 2: La Roque-Gageac
La Roque-Gageac is just 15-20 minutes from Sarlat. If you thought the scenery was already feeling cinematic, you’ll be in for a treat here.
The stone houses are tucked into the rock face here, and the whole village runs tight along the water.
We parked in a lot about a five-minute walk from the Fort de La Roque-Gageac. It’s a short climb to views over the valley that isn’t physically challenging, but may feel a little sketchy if you’re afraid of heights. Some exposed bits gave my mother-in-law pause.
There’s a short movie playing at the top, but your tickets come with an English audio guide that you can listen to later if you’d like to learn more about this stop.
The overhanging rock that’s such a striking feature of the fort once provided natural protection from both the elements and potential invaders. That helped it develop into a small but strategically important settlement in the Middle Ages.
Fun fact: From here, residents could monitor river traffic along the Dordogne, which was a key trade and transport route for the region.
Over time, as the need for fortifications declined, the village shifted into the peaceful riverside settlement you see now. Today, it’s known more for its dramatic setting than its military past.
Back on solid ground, you can check out the Église Notre-Dame de La Roque-Gageac or walk to the Château de la Malartrie, about 10-15 minutes in the opposite direction. It’s worth doing both.
The stroll to the château allowed us to see more of this beautiful village. It’s private, though, so you’ll just be looking at it from the outside.
Spend some time along the river path, too. It’s narrow in places but gives you a different perspective on the cliffs. You’ll pass by natural viewpoints to see the boats floating below, and ice cream shops if that intrigues you at this point.
Stop 3: Lunch
Stay in the La Roque-Gageac area for lunch. You can go the picnic route along the river, or choose from one of the sit-down options in and around the village if you’d rather not think about it.
Note: We had packed a lunch this day, as we wanted to keep moving. French lunches are leisurely!
Les Courtines has a lovely bistro on-site, but its hours are seasonal. Le Point De Vue has a terrace with views overlooking the Dordogne, but caters more to tourists.
My advice is always to choose something local, in this case, duck, when you’re traveling outside of the big cities!
Stop 4: Château de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
From La Roque-Gageac, it’s a short drive across the river.
Castelnaud sits directly opposite Beynac, and it gives you a different angle on the valley’s castle landscape. This one leans more into military history, with exhibits and reconstructions that make it more interactive than some of the others in the region.
If you don’t need another castle, you can skip this one, but it’s a bonus historical layer without much driving.
Stop 5: Domme
Finish the afternoon in Domme. After the river villages, suddenly you’re above the valley looking out across the entire Dordogne landscape.
The viewpoint is the highlight here. On a clear day, you can see for miles, and it’s a solid “let’s hit pause” moment of the trip.
Walk the quiet streets, grab an ice cream or drink if you want, and let this be your wind-down stop before heading back.
Stop 6: Dinner
Return to Sarlat for the night. If you haven’t already, have a meal at Gueule & Gosier. Their duck confit is one of the best I’ve ever had.
If that’s booked or you want to mix it up, there are a few other solid options in town. Le Presidial is a reliable choice for a more traditional, slightly refined meal in a historic setting. L’Adresse offers a more modern, Mediterranean take on regional ingredients.
Wherever you land, this is a good night to lean into the region’s specialties. Duck, walnuts, and anything involving truffles are highly recommended.
Dordogne Itinerary Day 3: Belvès, Monpazier, and Château de Biron
Today is your transition day. You’re leaving the Sarlat valley behind and heading into the more rural side of Dordogne.
The crowds should thin out apart from the Château de Biron, particularly among international tourists. The French love traveling to the countryside!
I’ve plotted your stops out in a way that makes logistical sense, limiting too much backtracking. If you want to start at the Château de Biron first, you can absolutely do that, especially if you’re traveling in the summer months when things get busier.
READ MORE: Planning a trip to France in the summer? Start with this guide to help you plan!
Stop 1: Belvès
Start the day in Belvès, one of the more understated medieval towns in the region.
The highlight here is beneath your feet. Head to the tourist office to book a short guided visit to the troglodyte dwellings carved into the rock below the village.
Note: Reservations ahead of your trip are recommended, especially if you need a tour in English. See tour times and contact information.
These dwellings in the “ditch,” as they were described to us, were once fully functioning homes, housing entire families along with their animals. Walking through them gives you a very different perspective on daily life in the Dordogne centuries ago.
After your tour, spend a bit of time wandering the upper town. It’s quiet, compact, and feels far less curated than Sarlat. Note the spot where people used to shame the town’s inhabitants for various infractions. It all felt very Game of Thrones.
Stop 2: Lunch
Belvès was super quiet during our visit, which made it an easy place to slow down for a proper break before continuing on.
We had lunch at La Table de Boudoir, an unfussy spot inside a hotel serving simple, well-executed country dishes.
There was some added fun with a birthday party happening at a table nearby. The birthday girl, who had just turned 72, told us the secret to a happy life is to simply enjoy it. Her husky smoker’s voice suggested as much.
Expect classic flavors, a short menu, and desserts that lean traditional. Crème caramel, if it’s available, is always welcome in my belly.
Stop 3: Monpazier
We drove past this charming town on our first trip to the Dordogne, so it was at the top of my list for spots to return to on our second visit. It’s just 15-20 minutes away from Belvès.
This is one of the best-preserved bastide towns in France. That means the entire town is built on a grid, centered around a covered market square that still functions exactly as it was designed to centuries ago.
If there’s a morning market on, this is a nice version of it. We had a walking tour planned here of the historical center through the tourism office, but you can also just spend some time walking around in a self-guided fashion.
The charm here is less about individual sights and more about how intact the town structure still feels. Our guide told us that market customs remain today. Life here is all about community, where everyone continues to know everyone, hundreds of years later.
When I suggested I might not like that, she described it as a point of connection, especially in the dreary winter months. I suppose even the introvert in me gets that.
Stop 4: Château de Biron
From Monpazier, it’s a short drive (under 10 minutes) to Château de Biron, which gives you a very different castle experience from Beynac or Castelnaud.
Instead of being tightly defensive or perched above a river, this one feels more like a sprawling timeline of French architecture. The château was held by the Gontaut-Biron family for centuries, and you can see that long history in how the place evolved.
It started as a medieval keep, then became a Renaissance residence, then had a bunch of later additions layered on over time.
Inside, you’re moving through large, open halls, chapels, and surprisingly airy rooms. There are occasional exhibitions and installations that help bring the space to life, but a lot of the appeal is simply wandering and taking in the scale of it all.
It’s also one of the easier castles to explore. Wide staircases, open courtyards, and fewer tight defensive passages make it feel less intense than some of the cliffside sites earlier in the trip.
Plan to spend about an hour and a half here. That gives you enough time to move through the main buildings and climb a few viewpoints.
Stop 5: Château dans les Arbres
End the day somewhere you’ll remember long after the trip is over. (This is also one of those places that will make friends and family pretty jealous back home, just in case that does anything for you.)
Château dans les Arbres is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a collection of château-inspired treehouses set across a quiet countryside property, with a few built over the water.
Each one is different, but all lean into that slightly surreal mix of rustic setting and playful design.
The setting is part of the appeal. You’ll see cows grazing in nearby pastures, walking trails around small lakes, and not much else. If you’re just here for the night, you’ll want to check in before bedtime to give yourself time to explore the grounds.
The icing on the cake was Pepsi, the resident dog, who more or less appointed herself our guide.
Dinner can be delivered directly to your treehouse if you’d like to arrange that. In the morning, breakfast arrives via a pulley system, with a full spread of viennoiseries, jams, and a very French amount of bread.
You’re not here to do much, but that’s the point.
If the treehouses are booked or simply not for you, use the map below to browse more options in the region:
Dordogne Itinerary Day 4: Grotte de Maxanges, Périgueux, and Brantôme
You’ll start today underground with a cave that has a quirky story. From there, experience one of the region’s best cities for foodies, and end in a Wes Anderson movie. It’s going to be a great day.
Stop 1: Grotte de Maxanges
This cave is run locally by two brothers, whose father originally discovered the cave. That family connection still shapes the experience. You’ll meet at least one or both when you check in for your tour, as they’re very hands-on with the day-to-day operations.
It’s not overly polished here, and it’s still evolving. On our visit, some of the nature paths were being expanded to add more opportunities to explore the site from above ground.
Inside, the cave opens into a series of chambers filled with thin, needle-like limestone formations known as helictites that have formed over thousands of years.
They twist like frozen sparks, which is why Maxanges is sometimes referred to as a “star cave.”
The visit is guided and often in French unless they know otherwise, but the experience is very visual. (Their online booking system was acting up during our trip, but you can start online for more information.)
Stop 2: Périgueux
Périgueux isn’t as pretty as some of the medieval villages in the region, but it doesn’t need to be. This is the destination for foodies in the Dordogne, with one of oldest market traditions in the region.
Start at Halle du Coderc, the town’s formal market building. The name itself comes from Occitan, loosely meaning a small open lawn, which reflects how central this space has always been to daily life.
On market days (Wednesdays and Saturdays), producers fill the square outside with foie gras, walnuts, truffle products, cheeses, and duck in every possible form.
Pâté de Périgueux is a local specialty worth looking out for, traditionally made with foie, truffle, and pork.
From here, wander into the old town. Streets like Rue Limogeanne still follow medieval routes linking the historic city with Limoges.
Much of the layout reflects how the town developed around earlier tensions between religious and economic power in the Middle Ages.
If you have time, walk or drive up toward the higher part of town to see remnants of the old ramparts and more of the city’s older layers, including traces of its Gallo-Roman past.
The full defensive circuit once stretched for nearly two kilometres, and while only small parts remain today, you can still climb up the remaining towers.
Stop by the tourism office or look at tours online if you’re interested in that, as you can only visit the tower with a guide. The views from the top are great!
Stop 3: Lunch
When you’re in a very foodie town, you should stick around and taste it.
We had a tasty three-course lunch at Oxalis, a modern eatery with a creative menu that plays with local flavors. The space is great, too. It’s a repurposed merchant’s house, but the lower level has tentacles coming out of the walls throughout.
We’re still debating over here whether it was an octopus or a squid.
The menu changes with the seasons, but expect thoughtful, well-executed plates like beetroot with burrata, pork filets, and playful desserts like strawberry tartare. You could likely walk in for lunch, but reservations are available via a contact form online.
Stop 4: Brantôme
From Périgueux, continue north to Brantôme, often called the “Venice of the Périgord.”
The nickname comes from the way the Dronne River wraps around the town. It creates the feeling of an island, or Venice, with stone bridges, quiet waterways, and reflections of medieval buildings in the water.
It’s easily one of the most picturesque destinations in the region.
It’s easy to just wander here, but you can also book a short boat tour for a different perspective of the abbey, the cliffs, and the layout of the town itself.
Tours are typically in French unless there’s a large group of English speakers on board, but they’ll give you some written information in English if you ask.
If you do want to listen to the narration, sit as close to the front of the boat as possible. We found it nearly impossible to hear our guide from our spot near the motor!
On foot, make your way into the abbey complex. The Abbaye de Brantôme is one of the oldest monastic sites in the region, with parts carved directly into the limestone cliffs. Behind it, there are troglodyte caves and remnants of monastic life tucked into the rock.
These were closed during our visit, but I’m sure they’re worth a look if they’re available to you when you go.
Stop 5: Dinner
We ate at Le Temps des Mets, a bistro-style spot near the abbey. The menu is well-priced for the setting, with a set Périgord menu and a few à la carte options. The food was solid but perhaps not a standout compared to some of the other meals in the region.
Desserts were the highlight for us, and the outdoor seating makes it worth it on a nice evening.
We stayed overnight at Le Moulin de l’Abbaye, a stunning property that looks like it was plucked out of a Wes Anderson movie. They have a Michelin-starred restaurant on site that I can’t vouch for, but the dinner spot I mentioned above is also their property.
The hotel is set across a few historic buildings, including an old mill, with views of the river, stone bridge, and abbey right outside. It’s one of the most scenic stays in the region, even if the rooms themselves can be a bit on the smaller side.
The real draw is the setting, especially in the evening when everything quiets down.
If you’d like to browse more accommodation options in Brantôme, use the map below:
Dordogne Itinerary Day 5: Bergerac, Wine Country, and the Countryside
Your final day shifts again, this time toward the Bergerac side of the Dordogne. This is wine country, but it’s not Bordeaux. It’s more accessible, a bit less formal, and still very much tied to the land. For travelers coming to or from Bordeaux, it’s a nice contrast.
If you stayed overnight at Le Moulin de l’Abbaye, linger a bit over breakfast, as you’ll be indulging in some wine today.
Optional Stop 1: Villars Cave
If you want one more look at the Dordogne’s underground world, Villars Cave is an easy detour from Brantôme before heading into wine country.
The cave stretches through a network of large chambers and narrow passages, with a mix of dramatic limestone formations and prehistoric markings.
You move from glittering calcite “soda straw” formations to vast rooms shaped over hundreds of thousands of years, with evidence of cave bears still visible in the walls.
There are also small painted sections deep inside the cave, including animal figures and abstract markings, some of which have been softened by mineral deposits over time.
You can’t take pictures inside, but this is an impressive place. Go online to book standard guided tours or more interactive experiences.
We were also told they’ll be offering tours involving a little mixology in one of the larger spaces inside the cave. I don’t hate that!
Stop 2: Vignoble des Verdots
From Villars or Brantôme, depending on your route, continue into the Bergerac wine region for a stop at Vignoble des Verdots – Maison Wessman.
The estate is part of a wider project led by Icelandic entrepreneur Jónas Bergsson through Maison Wessman.
He’s been investing in and rethinking wine production in the region, the idea being a more modern approach to Bergerac wines while still staying rooted in the local terroir.
Part of that positioning includes collaborations and cultural crossovers, including wines associated with well-known figures like Norah Jones. If you’ve visited French wine country, you know this doesn’t feel like French wine country, but that isn’t a dig.
At the core, this is still very much a working vineyard, producing a range of wines from easy-drinking bottles to more structured cuvées. There’s a strong focus on experimentation and sustainability, and the vibe leans fun, not stuffy.
It’s also one of the better places in the region to linger, especially if you stay for lunch at the Maison Wessman par Thierry Marx. The restaurant is a collaboration between Maison Wessman and Marx, a well-known figure in the French culinary world.
We enjoyed a meal on their terrace of seasonal dishes, including their “perfect egg” and take on duck confit, paired with a red wine from the estate. It didn’t suck. You can book a table online.
If you’d like a tasting or guided cellar visit, book one online. Time your lunch around your other plans at the vineyard!
Stop 3: Bergerac
Arrive in Bergerac and start at Quai Cyrano, at the tourism office, where you can pick up a walking map of the old town. If you’re not in a rush and want more wine, their rooftop terrace is a relaxed spot for a glass of local wine before heading out to explore.
From there, wander into the historic center, with its half-timbered streets and riverside squares. Keep an eye out for statues of Cyrano de Bergerac, the literary character tied loosely to the town’s name, even though the real Cyrano had only a distant connection.
Fun fact: The real deal was a 17th-century French soldier and writer, known for his sharp wit, duelling reputation, and satirical works. Over time, the fictional persona has become part of the town’s identity, shaping much of its cultural storytelling.
Try to make a stop at the Tobacco Museum (Musée du Tabac), housed in a former 17th-century residence. It traces the long history of tobacco production in the region, from its role as a major local industry to its global trade networks.
It’s more interesting than it sounds on paper, with a mix of social history, trade objects, and insight into how deeply tobacco shaped Bergerac’s economy and identity.
Stop 4: Le Cieux de Saint-Félix
End the day at Le Cieux de Saint-Félix, a small countryside guesthouse that feels like a natural extension of the region itself.
It’s run on a small scale, with only a handful of rooms, and has a personal atmosphere that feels like staying in someone’s home, in an upgraded way. The grounds are beautifully kept, with a pool, converted farm buildings, and open countryside all around.
Dinner is served on-site by Gael. Breakfast is, too. It’s all homemade and unhurried, and the place encourages you to slow down after a full day on the road.
We’d stayed at some pretty impressive places during our time in the Dordogne, but our night in this guesthouse felt the most rooted in the region.
If you’d like to explore other accommodations in nearby Bergerac, use the map below:
In the morning, you can wrap up your time in the Dordogne and head back toward Bordeaux, about a two-hour drive depending on your route. If you’re a lucky duck, you can continue on in the region with the ideas I’ll get into below.
With More Time in the Dordogne
We’ve seen a lot of this region, and even though this Dordogne Valley itinerary gives you a great first look, you won’t get to everything.
Here are some more ideas if you have a week in the Dordogne or more:
- Spend a day in Rocamadour. Some Dordogne itineraries include this stop, as it’s an easy-enough drive from the valley, but Rocamadour is in Lot, not the Dordogne. See my guide to Rocamadour if you’d like to plan a visit.
- Explore the Lascaux cave system in Montignac. This is the most famous prehistoric site in the Vézère Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The replica site gives you a deeper sense of the scale of prehistoric art here.
- Visit Beaumont-du-Périgord. This is another bastide town built around a traditional market square. We found it charming, if sleepy. It’s at its best on market days, when the square fills with local producers and seasonal food stalls.
- Stop in Limeuil. Where the Dordogne and Vézère rivers meet, this small village has one of the best elevated garden viewpoints in the region. It’s compact, peaceful, and ideal as a low-effort scenic stop between larger destinations.
- Explore Château de Commarque. Tucked away in a wooded valley, this partially restored medieval fortress is atmospheric. You can walk through the ruins, climb the tower, and get a sense of how isolated some of these defensive sites once were.
- Visit Saint-Amand-de-Coly. Often listed among the most beautiful villages in France, this small stone-built settlement is anchored by a huge fortified abbey church from the 12th century.
- See the Château des Milandes. This is the former home of Josephine Baker, where you can explore her life, her stage costumes, and the castle’s gardens overlooking the Dordogne Valley.
- Tour the valley’s medieval villages. Let someone else take over with a guided tour of the best of the Dordogne. Some of them include boat rides on the Dordogne River. This one departs from Sarlat.
Dordogne Itinerary FAQs
How many days do you need in the Dordogne?
Three days is enough to see the highlights around Sarlat and the river villages, but five days gives you a fuller experience, including caves, Périgueux, Brantôme, and Bergerac.
Do you need a car to visit the Dordogne?
Yes. Public transport is very limited between villages, castles, and caves. A car is the easiest way to follow this itinerary and actually make the most of your time. Book one ahead of your trip, especially if you can’t drive a manual.
What is the best base for a Dordogne trip?
Sarlat-la-Canéda is the most practical base for first-time visitors, especially for exploring the valley, castles, and nearby villages. Brantôme and Bergerac are also popular on longer trips that explore the other side of the valley.
When is the best time to visit the Dordogne?
Late spring through early autumn is ideal, especially May, June, and September. July and August are the busiest, with more crowds in villages and at major sites.
We visited in September and April. September is fun for the wine harvest and fall colors. April temperatures were mild, and the seasonal gastronomical offerings were delicious. I’d love to return in the winter for truffle hunting season!
Is the Dordogne good for a road trip?
The Dordogne is one of the best regions in France for a road trip. Distances are short, the scenery changes quickly, and this road trip itinerary naturally works as a loop or one-way route from Bordeaux.
Dordogne is an easy repeat visit.
Dordogne is an easy place to come back to. For us, it was even better the second time around.
The first visit was about ticking off the most popular castles, villages, and viewpoints. The second was when we started noticing the details.
This Dordogne itinerary gives you a solid foundation for a first trip, with some of what we loved from our first trip. Whether you stick to three days or stretch it to five (or more), the Dordogne will treat you to delicious food and fairytale scenery.
Planning more travel in France? Check out these guides:
- Honest Pros and Cons of Visiting Paris
- Things to Do in Saint-Germain-en-Laye
- How to Plan a Day in Lovely La Rochelle
- Is Paris Really That Expensive to Visit?
- Take a Walk Through Pont-Aven
More destinations we love in France:
- A Guide to Brittany’s Top Spots
- How to Plan Two Weeks in Brittany
- Guide to Évian-les-Bains, Beyond the Water
- Visiting Giverny in the Springtime
- Should You Plan a Visit to Versailles?
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