A Smarter Guide to the Cliffs of Étretat from Paris

When Brian’s parents told us they wanted to visit us shortly after we moved to France, Normandy was at the top of their list for road trip possibilities during their time here.

While everyone should see the D-Day Landing Beaches once in their lifetime, I had my sights set on something (literally) bigger: the white cliffs of Étretat.  

Researching the possibility of visiting Étretat from Paris left us with more questions than answers. Some of the information out there is really lacking on key points about getting yourself there and navigating the place once you’ve arrived.

I alone can fix it, I guess. This guide will dig into how to visit the cliffs of Étretat from Paris, whether it’s a smart day trip, and anything else you need to know for a first-time visit.

Is Étretat worth visiting?

Étretat is one of the most scenic places you’ll visit in France, so it’s absolutely worth planning a trip to see them in person. 

I’m big on recommending you visit most destinations at least once, but there’s a reason Étretat has inspired so many artists over the years. They’re inspiring, naturally.

You can plan a day trip to Étretat from Paris, but it’s a long day.

Many guides suggest Étretat as a day trip from Paris, but you’ll have a long day ahead of you if that’s what you decide to do.

We visited on a longer trip that took us to Honfleur for the night after. It was less than an hour to the harborside town if you’d like to do the same.

If you live life aggressively, I’ll include directions for traveling to Étretat from Paris and back again all in one day.

How to Get to Étretat

The cliffs of Étretat are located in the town of Étretat, naturally, in the Normandy region of Northwestern France. It’s approximately 35 minutes north of Le Havre by car. 

From central Paris, you can get there in several ways: 

• Rent a car and drive about three hours using the country’s pricey but smooth toll roads. 
• Take public transportation via SNCF from the Paris Saint-Lazare station to Bréauté-Beuzeville and catch bus 504 for a half-hour ride from there. If you time things right, that route should take about three hours, but buses are limited on weekends.
• Take public transportation via SNCF from the Paris Saint-Lazare station to Le Havre. From there, take bus 24 to Étretat.
• Take a FlixBus from various stops in Paris — these vary by the day — to Étretat. Drive times vary by starting point, but expect it to take at least three-and-a-half hours.
• Book a day trip tour and let someone else do the planning for you. 

We took the rental car route over the train, as it was a stop on our week-long road trip through the Normandy region between Rouen and Honfleur. We also avoided the toll roads. 

Fun fact: Your trip will take longer if you choose to do the same, but it lets you pass through all the cute French towns in the region.

The best options for you will depend on your timing.

If you take the train and bus combos, you’ll need to really watch your timing, especially if you’re traveling on a day with fewer of both running. That can start to feel stressful if you’re at the top of a cliff watching the minutes fly by. 

I’d likely book a guided tour over taking public transit if we didn’t drive. (That’s still my top option.) Most tours include other stops around Normany, though, so you need to be good with that.

Parking for the Cliffs at Étretat

This is where information online got a little nutty. Some advice had us parking up by the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde at the top of the hill.

If the parking exists we didn’t see it, and it seemed that driving the recommended road up to the hill was limited to local traffic.

Étretat is a pretty small village, but you do have other options that won’t result in dirty looks from locals wondering why you don’t know how to drive.

Here are a few more legitimate parking options in Étretat:

• Find street parking. This is what we did. There are paid parking spaces throughout town that are easier to nab if you arrive in the morning. The early bird gets the parking spot! 
• Park in a public lot. Parking at the Place du Général-de-Gaulle — the address is 14 Rue Mathurin Lenormand — is most convenient. The lot at Parking du Valaine is a secondary option that requires a longer walk back into town. 

I can’t emphasize enough how busy this place gets by mid-afternoon. If you’re only here for the day, you should be getting an early start anyway, but expect even the public lots to be full if you decide to sleep in, instead. 

How Much Time You Need in Étretat

Dedicate at least four hours in Étretat to do some hiking to the best viewpoints, walk along the beach, and visit the town. Add another hour or so if you want to visit Les Jardins d’Étretat, something I’d highly recommend.

There are certainly more things to do with additional time, but I’m talking about minimums here, especially for the day trippers out there. 

The Best Viewpoints in Étretat

The best views of the cliffs involve some climbing, whether that’s on your feet or riding Le Petit Train Touristique. 

We didn’t ride the train as we like getting steps, but it’s a convenient option if you want a more accessible visit. The train departs every half hour in high season from the city center.

If you’re here in the winter until about March 1, you’ll have to hoof it.

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

We’d seen photos of this one ahead of our trip, and I’m sure it strikes quite the scenic pose when it isn’t covered in scaffolding. That’s what you get in these parts. Buildings are old, and they’re in constant need of repair.

This was a quick stop for us before we moved on to the real action at the cliffs. 

La Falaise d’Amont 

This is the most iconic viewpoint in Étretat because of its connection to Claude Monet. The Impressionist artist immortalized this one in a series of paintings that capture the drama of this place. 

Since we’ve seen both at this point, the artistic depiction and the IRL version, I have to say you can’t beat the feeling of the wind against your face up there. Combine that with the intensity of the crashing waves below and you’ll be in your feels at this spot. 

READ MORE: If you love Monet, don’t miss Giverny. Check out this springtime guide.

If you’re hiking, it’ll take you about 10 minutes to get to the top. You can get down to the beach from here by following a narrow, sandy trail all the way to the pebbles below. 

It wasn’t super challenging, but I imagine it’d be slippery in the rain, with some high steps to navigate on the way up. A small cave at the beach level adds a little intrigue to your adventure.

READ MORE: Rainy days don’t have to mean ruined vacays. Check out my guide to Nice in the rain.

Monument L’Oiseau Blanc

The Monument L’Oiseau Blanc commemorates the first attempt to complete a non-stop transatlantic flight from Paris to New York. 

French aviators Charles Nungesser and François Coli started the ill-fated journey on May 8, 1927, but their biplane disappeared within a few hours. The monument here is a symbol of that trip, and it’s pointed in the direction they were last seen alive.

Note: I’ll get into this a little later, but you can learn more about the aviators and the history of Étretat in the museum nearby.

The wreckage of the aircraft has never been found, but any potential hazards at the cliffs didn’t stop the fervor for making that same crossing.

In less than two weeks after the plane went down, Charles Lindbergh successfully completed that same trip on the Spirit of St. Louis.

Falaise d’Aval

This popular stop offers a different perspective of the cliffs. It didn’t seem that far up of a climb, but felt steeper. It may have been because we weren’t on fresh legs at this point. 

It was also much windier on this side, so hold onto your hats!

Note: The first viewpoint at the top is the highlight, so if you want to stop there you won’t miss out too much. The second viewpoint is another seven minutes or so beyond that for another shot of the arch.

Les Jardins d’Étretat 

These gardens felt a little pricey as we stood there deciding on whether to get tickets, but they were so whimsical that we’d recommend it as a fun diversion for an hour or so. You’ll add some art and imagination to your day, which is always welcome.

Fun fact: The art installations start out strong with a key in a tree trunk that you can wind up to hear a melody play.

You’ll get a map at the front entrance, but it’s fun just to wander this place to find your favorite giant heads hiding in the grass and hidden sculptures.

With More Time in Étretat 

If you have more time, you could spend the full day in Étretat exploring the cliffs and surrounding town. You can also swim in Étretat, but it’s more of a local activity. 

The water temperatures here are cold, even in the summer months. Étretat Beach and Antifer Beach are the most popular options.

Here are a few more things to do in Étretat:

• Musée du Patrimoine d’Étretat: I mentioned this one already as a place to learn more about the French aviators who crashed while flying over Étretat. This one also gives you a primer on Étretat’s history.
• Le Clos Arsène Lupin: This museum is dedicated to the fictional gentleman thief  Arsène Lupin, created by author Maurice Leblanc. As we love the Netflix show, I have some major FOMO over having missed this one.
• Golf d’Étretat: Play a round of golf on this scenic course overlooking the cliffs and sea. I’m sure Brian’s got more FOMO over this one than the Lupin museum.
• Marché Couvert d’Étretat: The Étretat Covered Market is a local hall with food, crafts, souvenirs, and generous hours. We passed by briefly but didn’t linger long to buy anything. The cliffs were waiting!

Where to Eat in Étretat

We grabbed sandwiches and sweet treats from Boulangerie Patisserie “Le Petit Accent” and ate them on a bench overlooking the water. Both the food and the views were delicious. I highly recommend doing the same if you’re feeling casual. 

If you want something more formal, here are a few options:

• La Flottille: Expect regional cuisine and steaks off the grill at this local favorite. They don’t take reservations, but it’s a generous space.
• Le Clos Lupin: Let’s assume you’re having a themed day while you’re here. They don’t take reservations either, but you’ll have better luck at the start of their lunch service.
• Le Lann-Bihoué: OK, this one isn’t formal, but have you even been to France if you haven’t had crêpes? Pair them with cider for the real deal.

How do the Cliffs of Étretat compare to the White Cliffs of Dover?

Both Étretat’s cliffs and the White Cliffs of Dover offer stunning coastal vistas, but they differ in geology and appearance. Étretat’s cliffs feature limestone arches sculpted by the sea, while the White Cliffs of Dover are chalk cliffs rising from the English Channel. 

I’d say both are worth a visit, even if you have to dedicate a day of your trip to make either happen. Travel to Étretat has been one of our favorite experiences in France thus far, and I’m pretty sure we’ll be back at some point.

I did miss that Lupin museum, and Brian loves his golf!

Planning more travel in France? Check out these guides:

• Plan a Winter Trip to Strasbourg
• Get Fancy With One Day in Monaco
• Nice to Cannes: How to Travel Between Them
• How to Plan Two Incredible Weeks in Brittany
• You Need to Plan a Weekend in Nice

Check out these French destinations nearby while you’re at it:

• Planning a Trip to Lake Geneva? Stay in Évian!
• Is the Palace of Versailles Worth the Effort?
• Spend a Busy Day in Lovely Montpellier
• A Guide to the Best of Avignon in One Day
• Three Days in Venice: Plan a Busy Weekend

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