An Itinerary for Two Days in Edinburgh, Scotland

Scotland had been on our bucket list for a long time before we finally made the trip, but it wasn’t because of Edinburgh.

We were excited enough to see the city, but it’s hard not to get distracted by everything else this country has going on. I mean, it’s the home of golf (for Brian) and Highland coos (for me), for starters.

While I’ll maintain that our drive through a more rural side of Scotland met our high expectations, our time in Edinburgh was also pretty great.

This itinerary for two days in Edinburgh covers everything we were able to see, with some tips at the end for those with more time, too.

How Many Days to Spend in Edinburgh

Two days in Edinburgh is enough time to see the main attractions if you keep busy, but you can certainly spend more time here, too.

We had three-and-a-half days in the city, but wet weather limited some of the things we had planned. We still had a great time, as Edinburgh’s cultural scene offers quite a bit to do if the weather behaves badly.

What to Do With Two Days in Edinburgh

You can spend two days in Edinburgh like this:

• Explore Edinburgh Castle.
• Visit museums like The Writers’ Museum and the National Galleries of Scotland.
• Walk the Royal Mile.
• Have a sip at the Scotch Whisky Experience.
• Hike Arthur’s Seat.
• Tour Real Mary King’s Close.
• Relax in the Princes Street Gardens.
• Taste local specialties like haggis, mash, and a full Scottish breakfast.

Two Days in Edinburgh: Day 1

Two days isn’t a ton of time in Edinburgh, so we’ll be moving at a speedy clip here. If you have more time, feel free to take things at a more leisurely pace. I’ll have some ideas to follow about bonus Edinburgh activities for those with more time in the city.

On your first day, you’re knocking off some of Edinburgh’s biggest attractions. We don’t generally kick things off with a leisurely breakfast when we have limited time, but if you need a little something, grab a pastry from a spot near your first stop.

The Castle Rock Cafe is a good option that’s very close to the castle. If you really need a full Scottish breakfast, you can get one at the nearby Castlegate Cafe. 

Expect bacon, sausage, black pudding, haggis, baked beans, mushrooms, fried eggs, tomatoes, toast, and tattie scones. There can be variations from there. It’s a lot, and I’ve only needed it once to know it’s TOO much, but I’m not going to yuck your yum!

Stop 1: Witches’ Well

You’ll pass by the Witches’ Well on your way to visiting Edinburgh Castle, so take a minute to pay your respects.

This small monument marks the spot where, between the 16th and 18th centuries, more than 300 people (mostly women) were executed after being accused of witchcraft. 

It’s easy to miss, even if you’re right in front of it, which is sad to think about when you consider what it’s commemorating. We had to ask two dudes to move aside as they stared at their paper maps in front of the plaque.

Stop 2: Edinburgh Castle

Try to land the first ticket time for the castle for your best chance at fewer tourists. We failed here and didn’t get in until midday. While we’d seen worse in terms of crowds, it would’ve been more pleasant with fewer people.

Note: If you’re not able to get that early time, try to catch the One o’Clock gun. This is how ships set their maritime clocks back in the day, and it’s still fired today every day except Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas. Somehow, we missed it while we were in the bathroom. There was a lot of winning on our part in Edinburgh.

This guide from Happy to Wander is excellent in terms of how you should approach this place. If there’s one takeaway from that guide, it’s to start with the Honours of Scotland, or the Crown Jewels, no matter what you see on the way up there.  

That’s where you’ll see the biggest crowds, but not everyone will get there first, as it involves a climb up the hill. 

The Edinburgh Castle Dog Cemetery, prisons, and St Margaret’s Chapel, a chapel from the 1100s, were highlights for us, but tackle the site however you please after the jewels. The views from the top are fantastic, too.

You’ll just want to watch museum closure times as you explore. Some of them are privately run and may have different operating hours compared to the castle itself. 

Expect to spend at least two, perhaps three hours, at the site, depending on how interested you are in seeing each historical bit. I know sometimes I get armor fatigue at these places. It’s a fascinating place, though!

READ MORE: Love a Scottish castle? If you’re a Monty Python fan, too, don’t miss Doune Castle.

Stop 3: Lunch

We wanted to grab something speedy and relatively healthy, as we knew our Scottish trip would be an indulgent one, so we went with Let Me Eat Too. 

You’ll walk past Saint Columba’s Free Church of Scotland and The Hub, an arts and event space, on your way. Snap some photos before moseying down to Victoria Street and its colorful storefronts. 

The street is charming, but it didn’t offer us much in the way of touristy shops and pubs, neither of which we desired in that moment, so off to lunch we went!

The café serves up wraps, paninis, and smoothies all made fresh on-site. They have both vegan and classic haggis, too, just in case you want something more traditional. The vegan haggis was nice in a wrap! 

Stop 4: The Writers’ Museum

You may be able to fit this one in before lunch, depending on how aggressive you were at the castle. You don’t need a ton of time here either way, depending on your interest in each author. Budget an hour, at most. 

The free Writers’ Museum is dedicated to Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson, with rooms for each writer. I enjoyed reading the poetry on display from Robert Burns.

Don’t miss the wooden wardrobe in the Stevenson exhibit. It was made by a local man named Deacon Brodie, whose double life inspired Stevenson’s novel, The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.

Stop 5: The Scotch Whisky Experience

This is something you’ll need to book a time for, but we saw loads of slots available the night before our visit in the summertime. They run a lot of groups through here!

I had my doubts about whether this would be a tourist trap, but it turned out to be quite fun. You’ll get a guided tour through whisky making, followed by a tasting.

We got the cheaper tour that only included a single taste, but there are pricier ones if you want to try more.

Neither of us is all that into whisky, but we liked learning about the different regions and how the flavors changed depending on the local climate. 

Fun fact: Speyside whiskies are known for being more fruity. Campbeltown whiskies offer hints of salt and smoke. This is just what we were told, by the way, and not what we tasted on our own palates. 

There is a basement bar on-site where you can enjoy a cocktail after your tour. We went, and it was the most disappointing part of our visit. 

The service was so awful, and it took them nearly half an hour to get our drinks out to us. I wouldn’t recommend it, especially when there are SO many pubs around for you to patronize. Stick with the tour and accompanying tastings for a solid experience.

Stop 6: The Royal Mile

Walk off some of what you consumed at your last stop on the Royal Mile. This is Edinburgh’s historic main street, running from Edinburgh Castle in Old Town down to Holyrood Palace.

It’s lined with all kinds of medieval closes, shops, pubs, and, often, bagpipe players. Save a close for tomorrow, especially if you have no idea what a close is, and take in the sights in a more leisurely fashion today along the Royal Mile.

Fun fact: The Scots wanted to one-up the Brits with this one, so it’s actually a little over a mile from end to end. 

Here are a few things to check out on and around this historic stretch:

• Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop: You won’t get tastings here, but they will let you sample any open bottles they have at the ready if you’re buying. We went home with one described as an Old Fashioned in a bottle, and the story tracks, I think. 
• David Hume’s Statue: You’ll know you’re at the right philosopher’s statue when you spot his shiny toe. Some claim that touching his toe will bring you good luck, which is funny because Hume didn’t believe in superstition.
• Dunbar’s Close: This cute garden is a quick visit for a little quiet. It was designed to look like something out of the 17th century, but it’s quite a bit more modern. The walled garden has only looked like this since the 1970s.
• St Giles’ Cathedral: This is the only spot in Edinburgh where you can find an angel playing the bagpipes. The church is also known for its Thistle Chapel and impressive stained glass.
• The Scotsman Steps: This is off the mile a bit, but it’s worth taking a look. Each marble step is made of a different kind and color of marble. The art installation is the work of British artist Martin Creed. 

You’ll also pass quite a few shops. I had to pop inside one to purchase pictures of a bulldog and a Highland cow playing poker, but at least I didn’t get more whisky. I also went home with a new Scottish cardigan. There were no regrets. 

Stop 7: Dinner 

Makars Mash Bar came recommended to us by several different locals, so we decided to prioritize this one during our visit to Edinburgh. You can make a reservation, wait in the walk-in line, or put your name in at the main door. 

We chose the last option, although reservations would have been ideal. The wait was about 45 minutes. When they called us back, our table wasn’t quite ready. Then the power went out at one point in the front dining room.

Despite all of that, dinner was tasty, and the concept is fun. It’s basically mashed potatoes topped with a variety of proteins or veggies, depending on what you’re after. Brian got the haggis and blood sausage, while I got the beef and cheddar. 

It was a little overpriced for the type of food they serve, but Edinburgh overall is quite expensive.

If you want something a little different, we really enjoyed our meal at Sofia’s Lounge, a Lebanese street food spot. It was my first time trying halloumi in mozzarella stick form, and I am changed.

Optional Stop 8: Edinburgh Pub

We were tired at this point, but if you’re interested in that pub life, you have so many options.

The Last Drop looked like a good time, and it comes with some weird history. It operates near the old execution site. If that doesn’t make you want to drink, I’m not sure what would.

The Bow Bar is another popular local option for cask beers and single malts. Don’t get Brian started on cask ales. He is NOT a fan, but if you’ve never tried one, Edinburgh is a great place to taste one for yourself.

I don’t love them either. They’re served warmer than most beers and lack the fizz of what we’re used to. Some of them come with a side of sediment, too. It’s just…different.

READ MORE: For an idea of the kinds of beers we DO enjoy, check out our guide to San Diego’s best breweries.

Two Days in Edinburgh: Day 2

The start of your second day in Edinburgh will depend on the weather. If you’re unlucky as we were and dealing with rain, you may want to go with the alternative. Don’t feel too sad about it. You’ll still have a lot of fun.

If you are dealing with rain, treat yourself to a sweet or two at Kilted Donut. It was pricey but delicious. One tasted like banana pie, and the other was full of fresh blueberries. We absolutely devoured them underneath a tree as the rain fell.

Stop 1: Arthur’s Seat

If you woke up to sunny skies, make me jealous by climbing to this iconic hill above Holyrood Park for panoramic views of the city. Arthur’s Seat is the remains of an ancient volcano, which gives it even more street cred.

To hike it, you’ll start at the park entrance near Holyrood Palace. We would have just walked there, as all of the public transit options would have taken just as long or longer. The climb from there takes about 30-45 minutes, depending on the route you choose.

Here are your options:

• Steeper route: The Salisbury Crags path from Holyrood Park near Queen’s Drive is shorter and more direct, but involves a sharper ascent with uneven, rocky terrain.
• Gentler route: The Meadowmill/Dunsapie Loch loop winds around the base before ascending for a more gradual climb and scenic views of Dunsapie Loch and the park.

You can also combine both, ascending the gentle route and descending the steeper one, for a little variety. Either way, wear sturdy shoes and bring lots of water.

Plan for your excursion up there to take a few hours at a pace that includes some time soaking it all in at the summit.

Alternative Stop 1: Camera Obscura & World of Illusions

It was raining pretty dang hard when we got up on our second day in Edinburgh, so we had to quickly switch gears and find an indoor alternative. This was it!

Much like the whisky tour we planned on the first day, I was skeptical about this one. “Camera Obscura & World of Illusions” just sounds like one of those traps that’s made to lure people just interested in Instagram photos.

I was wrong again, and that’s the last time I’ll be admitting that, at least on this guide.

This place is multiple floors of distortion and interactive fun. While the vortex wasn’t my favorite, as I’ve apparently developed some vertigo in my advanced age, this place was a good time.

See some of the fun we had in the clip below:

Its highlight is the Victorian-era camera obscura on the top floor, a clever optical device that projects a live view of the city onto a viewing table using mirrors and sunlight. You have access to great views of the city from the top, too, even if it’s drizzling.

This place is perfect for kids, goofballs, and people who are wet, because it’s Scotland.

Stop 2: Lunch

If you hiked Arthur’s Seat, the Sheep Heid Inn is a very popular historic pub out that way. Otherwise, you’ll be well-located for all kinds of good, casual eating back in the historic center.

We chose the Castlegate Cafe, a super cute spot for toasties, salads, and coffee to wake ourselves up during the gloomy day. I recommended this one earlier as a good spot for full Scottish breakfasts, too.

Everything was fresh and tasty, and the service was great. It was busy, but there wasn’t a wait when we arrived at the start of the lunch hour.

Stop 3: The Real Mary King’s Close

In Edinburgh, a “close” is a narrow alley or passageway that typically leads off the Royal Mile. Historically, these were residential streets packed with tenement buildings, often housing merchants, craftsmen, and families. 

Today, they’re a mix of historic sites, hidden courtyards, small shops, and cafés. Some, like Mary King’s Close, are preserved underground and open as tourist attractions, and I’d highly recommend a tour there. 

We visited during Pride Month, so we booked a special tour that included information about the LGBTQIA+ community in Edinburgh from the mid-16th century. It was a sad, but at times inspiring history that you may not hear anywhere else. 

Note: Tours of this close are very popular, so you’ll want to book one in advance and move things around as you see fit. There are different themed tours throughout the year, as well, along with their standard informational tour. 

Stop 4: National Galleries of Scotland: National

The National Galleries of Scotland in Edinburgh consist of several institutions. That includes the Scottish National Gallery, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. 

This one is the most popular, as it’s where you’ll find art from the Renaissance through the 19th century. Big names like Titian, Rembrandt, and Van Gogh are all represented here, but you’ll also get a big dose of Scottish art.

It’s not just kilts.

Admission is free, so you can spend as much time as you’d like inside without worrying about getting your money’s worth. I’d budget about an hour and a half to enjoy the highlights and some extras at a comfortable pace. 

Stop 5: Princes Street Gardens

Princes Street Gardens is actually two linked public parks, East and West, running along the south side of Princes Street in Edinburgh. You’ve likely seen some of the western park already, at least from a distance, as it sits behind Edinburgh Castle.

Spend some time in the larger section, the West Princes Street Gardens, first. That’s where you’ll find Ross Fountain, a 19th-century cast-iron fountain, and my personal favorite, the Wojtek the Soldier Bear Memorial.

Wojtek was a Syrian brown bear adopted by Polish soldiers during World War II. He helped carry ammunition in battle as a symbol of badassery. After the war, he lived at Edinburgh Zoo until 1963. The bronze statue depicts Wojtek with a Polish soldier. 

East Princes Street Gardens is much smaller, but it may get even more traffic thanks to the Gothic spire that towers over the park. This is the Scott Monument, dedicated to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. 

This is actually the tallest monument dedicated to a writer after the José Martí Memorial in Havana, Cuba. We didn’t climb it, but you can. There are 287 steps in total to reach the viewing platforms for panoramas of the city. 

Stop 6: Dinner

We waited too long to get reservations at The Scran and Scallie, but Edinburgh visitors seem to love this place. Book your table at the gastro pub online at least a few days in advance, no matter the season. The King’s Whark is another option with a similar vibe.

If you haven’t planned as well, Bonnie & Wild is a fun option with lots of variety for pickier palates. Yes, it’s in a mall, but once you walk in, it feels like an upmarket food hall. 

We got the fish and chips and a plate of oysters from Creel Caught by Gary Maclean and the burger from El Perro Negro. The burger gas won all kinds of awards as one of the best in the UK, and it was indeed very tasty.

We finished up with some overpriced but delicious cookies from Chulo’s Stuffed Cookies. If you love options, Edinburgh Street Food is another hall with more eclectic eateries.

I’ll leave the post-dinner pub up to you again. There are cocktail opportunities at the food hall, or you’re surrounded by pubs once you leave its doors. This is Scotland, after all. The Guildford Arms is just a five-minute walk from Bonnie & Wild.

More Things to Do in Edinburgh

It’s not possible to see all there is to see on just a two-day Edinburgh itinerary, but I’m assuming you’re only here for that long because you want to see more of Scotland. I get it. It’s fantastic.

If you have more time, here are some ideas for how to fill it:

• Dean Village: This is a picturesque part of town along the Water of Leith that was once a milling village dating back to the 12th century. You’ll be close to the National Galleries of Scotland: Modern Two from here.
• Dr. Neil’s Garden: This is known as Edinburgh’s secret garden. It’s tucked beside Duddingston Loc, so it could be added to your hike up Arthur’s Seat if you’re feeling aggressive.
• Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery Edinburgh: This is one of Scotland’s most atmospheric cemeteries, dating back to the late 16th century, and it’s linked to so many spooky stories. A haunted tour of this place is high on my list for a return trip.
• Jacob’s Ladder: We tackled this one after attending the protest I mention in a bit. This is steep staircase connects Calton Hill with the city below. On a nice day, the view of the New Town is quite good. Ignore how sketchy it may appear at first!
• National Museum of Scotland: Take a journey through Scottish history and culture at this one. While you may need to pay to see some of their special exhibitions, the main space is free.
• Palace of Holyroodhouse: This is Edinburgh’s official royal residence. Dating back to the 16th century, it has served as a home for Scottish kings and queens, including Mary, Queen of Scots. If you don’t want to climb Arthur’s Seat, see it from here. 
• Port of Leith Distillery: This is Scotland’s first vertical distillery. We had a dinner reservation here that we canceled as it was just too much effort to get up to Leith on our last day, but they do tours and tastings, as well.
• The Potter Trail: We actually had a free walking tour booked to check out the city’s Harry Potter connections, but then we found out there was a protest happening at the U.S. embassy. (It was their version of “No Kings.” Priorities, people!)
• Royal Yacht Britannia: This ship docked in Leith was the former royal yacht of Queen Elizabeth II. You can explore its state apartments, crew quarters, and the engine room for some insight into royal life at sea. 
• Surgeons’ Hall Museums: I usually love this sort of thing, but we just ran out of time. See a history of medicine, surgery, and pathology through this collection of preserved specimens and historic surgical instruments.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

We stayed at the Braid Apartments by Mansley in Edinburgh. The location was great, as we were able to walk everywhere on this itinerary from our accommodations. The rooms were comfortable, and the price was right.

Just make sure that you let the staff know exactly when you’re arriving. We were a little delayed coming in, and narrowly missed their check-in window.

We would have had to call a number for the door code, which is fine for those with an international carrier (that’s us!) but may not be for you. Explore more options in Edinburgh using the map below:

Edinburgh is always worth a visit.

I’m sure we’ll be back in Edinburgh, as it’s the main gateway for travel to Scotland. There’s just no way you can see everything you want to see in this country with just one visit.

That doesn’t mean Edinburgh isn’t worth a trip as a fun city break all on its own. There is plenty to do here for a weekend away, or even more time if you can spare it.

While it’s one of the more expensive cities we’ve been to in Europe, it certainly delivered on a good time!

Planning more travel in the UK? Check these out:

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• Planning a Long Weekend in Kraków
• How to Spend Your Three Days in Rome
• Should You Spend Some Time in Venice?
• Plan One Busy Day in Reykjavik
• Paris Is Always Worth a Repeat Trip!

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