A Mighty Nice Itinerary for a Weekend in Nice, France

Trips to the French Riviera are the stuff of Champagne wishes and caviar dreams. In my case, you can skip the caviar and give me another splash of champers, please.

If you’re already plotting a trip here, you’ll be flying into Nice, France, to get there. Some travelers bounce immediately after their arrival to the city, but a weekend in Nice is a great way to introduce yourself to the region.

There’s a reason why it’s been an inspiration for so many artists. Due to its proximity to Italy, the cuisine is intriguing, too. It’s a little bit French, a little bit Italian, and all its own thing.

This Nice itinerary will give you the opportunity to eat, explore, and learn about why we found it so charming.

Nice is pretty famous.

Nice is known for its picturesque setting and for inspiring artists like Picasso, Matisse, and Renoir with its landscapes. Visitors also come to Nice for its pleasant Mediterranean climate and delicious cuisine.

How Much Time to Spend in Nice

You need a weekend in Nice to give you enough time to enjoy the seaport city at a nice pace. With a long weekend, you can spend a day exploring the outskirts of the city.

Nice is what got Brian’s brain thinking that France is pretty incredible indeed. It’d take a few years after our first trip to the French Riviera, but we’d end up moving to France to a town sight unseen in part because we loved our first trip to France together so much.

Charming Nice has that effect on people.

A Weekend in Nice: Day 1

I’m assuming two full days to see the best things to do in Nice. You probably arrived in the evening on the previous day, in which case you should stuff your belly full of pastries and get some rest.

Also, maybe drink some wine, because you’ll find it’s quite economical to do so here.

If you only have a day in Nice, my day one itinerary will take you to the highlights of this beautiful town.

Note: If you’d like to follow this Nice itinerary pretty faithfully, that’s awesome. Just beware that the French — and generally Europeans, as they have a superior quality of life to Americans — are notorious for closing down shop for holidays and/or arbitrarily. Reservations are always a good call, and check websites for special events and other closures.

Stop 1: Breakfast/Cours Saleya Markets

I’m not usually a big breakfast person, but I do indulge in the “most important meal of the day” on trips as I’ve come to the conclusion that I should be eating as much local food as possible.

Fun fact: I put that in quotes because I’ve done some research on this topic, and basically, you should just eat when you’re hungry. For me that is the majority of the day, so it works out.

It is not difficult to find a good pastry shop on a Nice weekend. You can go into one that looks like a gas station store and still find the most fantastical pastries you’ve ever seen in your sad life.

One suggestion if you’re afraid of all the choices is Chez Maître Pierre, an Old Nice staple popular with locals where you can pick up savory salads and sandwiches in addition to all of the sweet treats.

Another option is starting off the day at the Cours Saleya Markets in Vieux Nice, or the old town in the city. You could make your own charcuterie plate with all the fresh fruits, veggies, olives, and bread they sell.

You can also visit one of the cafes and stands adjacent to the market. Chez Thérésa is a popular option for her socca, which isn’t a crepe and isn’t a flatbread. It’s a savory chickpea flour situation popular throughout Nice, and it’s delicious.

Stop 2: Place Masséna

Place Masséna is a historic square that connects the city’s main thoroughfares, like the Avenue Jean Médecin. You want to pause here though to check out the obligatory nude Adonis. In this case, it’s actually Apollo guarding the Sun Fountain.

Apollo was censored for a while back in the 1970s by a group of virtuous women who couldn’t handle the size of his member staring at them as they tried to eat their morning baguettes.

The sculptor chiseled away some of the offending body parts to cause less offense (this is all true), but Apollo was banished anyway. He didn’t make his not-so-triumphant return until 2011, shortened member and all.

Tear your eyes away from Apollo for at least enough time to check out the seven statues above as you walk across the square. I didn’t notice them until we walked through the square again at night, as they’re lit up and change colors when the sun goes down.

They’re supposed to represent a “conversation in Nice” between the seven continents.

Note: If you’re starting at Chez Maître Pierre for breakfast, walk past Place Massena on your way to the Cours Saleya Markets so that you’re not backtracking later. Otherwise, you can view the churches first at Stop 3, as they’re both steps away from the markets.

Stop 3: Churches of Old Nice

The Cathédrale Sainte Reparate de Nice, or Nice Cathedral, was completed in 1685. The oldest church in the city, it’s a national monument in France, and it’s a quick stop to view its gilded interior while in Vieille Ville, or the old town.

The highlight of the Chapelle de la Miséricorde is its domed ceiling, but if you want to see that, you’ll have to visit when it’s open to the public, a very limited block on Tuesdays only.

I don’t know what day it is on vacation typically, so we missed out on this. At the very least, you’ll walk past the church a few times during your explorations to see its lovely exterior.

Stop 4: Palais Lascaris/Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain

Nice is an art center, a place that led many an artist to become inspired by his/her surroundings and do some artistic things. It continues to do so. You’ll find several museums that are must-stops in my mind.

A number of them are included in a 24-hour museum pass, where you buy admission to one museum for a flat rate and have access to a list of others within the city over the next 24 hours. I’ll note that below if that’s the case.

This is different than the French Riviera Pass, which also includes public transportation and other attractions on the French Riviera.

We didn’t see a need to pay a premium for that pass after crunching the numbers, but I wouldn’t necessarily dissuade you from doing so if it works for you.

Before an official food stop, choose a museum option in close proximity to the city center, the Palais Lascaris or Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain.

The Palais Lascaris is at the very least worth a stop to check out its facade and impressive lobby. We ran out of time to explore further.

If you go, you’ll be treated to an exhibit of more than 500 musical instruments, which sounds fun. The museum is included in the 24-hour museum pass.

We did visit the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC), or Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. This was a pleasant surprise when you’re in a group that is at times skeptical of modern art.

Even Brian, one of the world’s harshest modern art critics, enjoyed the second-floor exhibit of Lars Fredrikson and his science-based art experiments, televisions crackling from interference and manipulated sheet metal filling a room.

The exhibits there are temporary, so visit their website for current offerings. This one is also on the museum pass.

Stop 5: Place Garibaldi/Lunch

If you’re at MAMAC, you’re steps away from Place Garibaldi, a beautiful square with lots of little cafes where you can take a break and do some tourist peeping.

It is, in fact, a little bit touristy, but most of the eateries will have menus out front that you can peruse and determine whether they’re worth your euro.

If you didn’t already have a socca at Chez Thérésa or wouldn’t mind more, Chez Pipo is another great option. We had a tapas-style meal there, basically ordering double of everything on the menu because it was that cheap and we like to eat that much.

We also had a bottle of Beaujolais wine because it was super cheap and in-season before the holiday season. Reservations aren’t necessary unless you’re traveling in a large group.

Stop 6: Promenade des Anglais

Nice has nice beaches along the Promenade des Anglais like the Ruhl Plage and private Blue Beach. While Nice does get chilly in the late fall and winter months, you’ll likely see locals enjoying the beaches year-round.

Belly full, you should be up for a seaside stroll on the Promenade des Anglais. Along the way, you’ll run into La Chaise Bleue de SAB, a sculpture of a large blue beach chair that represents the actual blue beach chairs along the promenade.

Sunning yourself in the summertime — or even in the off months if the weather allows — and hanging out on promenade-side benches is a popular Nice hobby. These are life goals, truly.

Stop 7: Musée Masséna

Heading west along the promenade is the Musée Masséna, where the intrigue starts with its beautiful exterior.

It was originally built as a holiday home for Prince Victor d’Essling, a bird and plant-lover who was the grandson of one of Napoleon’s generals.

Once inside, you’ll see exhibits set up in the beautiful interior rooms, including one featuring Napoleon’s death mask and a tiny vest he wore, I imagine to parties or wars. This one is on the museum pass.

Stop 8: Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice

If you have the time and want to make more of your museum pass, pop into the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice, Nice’s fine arts museum. We had high hopes for this one walking in because we bumped into a man outside who said it was the greatest museum he’d been to in Nice.

Once inside, though, it seemed a bit small. I’m wondering if there were areas under construction, as we didn’t see the artists we thought we would, e.g. landscape paintings from Claude Monet.

What we did see were many breasts.

There were topless women reading, topless women embracing each other, and topless women frolicking. Oh, I see what that guy was talking about now. As mentioned, this one is on the museum pass.

Stop 9: Hotel Negresco

The bar inside the more than 100-year-old Hotel Negresco on the Promenade des Anglais is legendary for its ambiance and expensive cocktails. I made that second part up, but it’s like $25 for a drink there. I’m not exaggerating.

We went for it because it’s vacation and it’s the Riviera and we probably had two bottles of cheap wine in us by that point, which can affect decisions. The Champagne varieties and martinis are especially fun…until you get the bill, of course.

If you love those fancy hotel vibes, by the way,  Le Méridien Nice (also known as The Méridien Hotel) has a terrace bar for drinks and snacks with a view.

Stop 10: Dinner

There’s no shortage of fancy dinner options in Nice. There are also lots of affordable options. No matter what you decide, reservations are always a good idea.

On the more affordable side, platters at La Rossettisserie all come with your choice of meat (sorry, veggies) and a side of mashed/roasted potatoes or ratatouille at a budget-friendly price. We all shared a bottle of Beaujolais wine, too, because holidays.

Reservations are available via the contact form on their site.

READ MORE: For more dinner ideas, check out my post on what to do in Nice when it rains.

That post also includes ideas for nightcaps if you’ve got the energy. I’d highly recommend Les Distilleries Idéales at some point during your trip, at least to check out its steampunk interior and its beer and wine offerings.

A Weekend in Nice: Day 2

Your Nice itinerary doesn’t get any less exciting on your second day. Hit a market to fuel up for more art and historical intrigue.

Stop 1: Le Marché de Libération

You’ll be starting your exploration north of the city center today. Kick things off with another market, Le Marché de Libération. This market’s focus is on seasonal goodies and seafood.

Too early for snails? Check out Kiosque Chez Tintin. You can carb load for the day with fresh baguettes, or partake in a local specialty, pan bagnat, a sandwich full of tuna and veggies and drizzled with olive oil.

Stop 2: The Archaeology Museum of Nice-Cimiez

I love historic ruins, and despite its modest size, there’s much to see at the Cimiez Arenas archaeological site and the accompanying Musée d’Archéologie de Nice/Cimiez, a museum of items that have been excavated there over the years.

This was a stop that exceeded expectations, as what I read online before our visit wasn’t exactly glowing. You’re not in Rome, obviously, so don’t be a tool and compare it to Rome. The whole thing was very cool.

This one is on the museum pass.

Stop 3: Musée Matisse

In the same complex as the archaeological site, the Musée Matisse is dedicated to Henri Matisse. It includes the artist’s sketches, sculptures, and paintings, as he was a Jacque of all trades. The Matisse Museum is on the museum pass.

If you’re a big fan of his work, there are a few additional stops nearby. You can visit where Matisse is buried across the park at the Monastere Notre Dame de Cimiez cemetery. French painter Raoul Dufy is also buried there.

You can also visit La Régina, or the Excelsior Régina Palace on your maps app, where Matisse lived in the 1940s until his death in 1954.

READ MORE: Love the arts? Put Giverny on your list for all things Claude Monet.

Alternative Stop 3: Musée National Marc Chagall

We weren’t able to make it to the Marc Chagall National Museum due to time constraints, but it may be an alternative for you if you’re a Marc Chagall fan over Henri Matisse. It will be in the same part of town.

If you’re a fan of Chagall’s work, it’s not to be missed, as the museum has the largest collection of his work. This one is not on the museum pass.

Stop 4: Lunch

You’ll want to head back toward the city center for the rest of the afternoon. On your way, you’ll need some sustenance for the climbing you’ll be doing after lunch.

What better way to do that than to carb load?

Fun fact: Cuisine in Nice is its own thing when comparing it to the rest of France, and at times, quite Italian.

One option to explore Nice’s Italian side is Il Carretto. This is Sicilian food that can pass for the real deal if you shut those eyes and imagine Italian over French. Reservations are available online.

Stop 6: Colline du Château/Castle Hill

You’re either in a food coma at this point or ready to burn off some calories. If you’re feeling sluggish, you can take an Uber down to your next destination, as there will be some exertion expected once you’re there.

Otherwise, you’re about a mile and a half away from the above-mentioned lunch spot.

You’ll see steps leading up the hill off the Promenade des Anglais near the city’s “#I Love Nice” sign. You know you want to take some pics for the ‘gram, so get yourself some.

If you prefer a lift, that’s an option, too. The free lift is located at the neon sign marked “Ascenseur de la Chateau” next to the Hotel Suisse and will take you up most of the way. The lift generally runs during daylight hours.

If you’re walking up, there are several stops to rest and take some photos and make it look like you’re not out of breath but actually intrigued by the vistas. (It’s not that dramatic a climb. I’m dramatic, but there are rest stops, is the point.)

You’ll see a waterfall up there and panorama views over Nice and the Baie des Anges below that will make all of your efforts worth it. No, there’s no castle up here, but seriously, it’s the most beautiful spot in the city.

Stop 7: Port Lympia

You’re probably approaching sunset by now. If you don’t catch it at Castle Hill, Port Lympia is another option.

While taking it all in, we met a guy from Brooklyn there who stopped to talk to us because we were talking to one another in English, as we tend to do.

He was very nice, but I think perhaps yearning for some company, as we learned all about how he’s lived in France for 25 years, and all about his divorce. I’m just trying to see all these sky colors, man.

Stop 8: Dinner

Interested in something a little snazzier for dinner this evening? There are many many nice restaurants in Nice. (Hehe.) One I can recommend is Olive et Artichaut, a restaurant in Old Nice that’s a bit fancier but not quite tasting menu-level fancy. Reservations are available via their online booking system.

With More Time in Nice

We had nearly a full week in Nice to explore the French Riviera at a slower pace. If you have three days in Nice or more, you can choose your own adventure with one of the many day trip possibilities available.

Here are my favorites:

• Antibes: This one was my favorite Nice day trip, and not only because of the giant yachts. Read my Antibes guide for how to spend a delightful day in Antibes.
• Cannes: Cannes is more than the sum of its film festival, but it’s also that. To learn more, read my detailed guide to all the best things to do in Cannes.
• Monaco & Èze: Monaco is fine, but Èze is scenic as heck. Read my guide for traveling to both Monaco & Èze from Nice if you want to make it happen.

How to Get to Nice

To kick off short breaks in Nice, you’ll likely fly into Nice Côte d’Azur Airport. The airport does offer direct flights from many major cities around the world, but you may find a better deal connecting through Paris.

If you’re in Paris already and don’t want to fly, you can take a train from Paris to Nice. That option will take you about six hours from station to station.

Once you’re in Nice, it’s easy to explore the city on foot. We didn’t need wheels until we started taking day trips outside of the city. I’d urge you to stick to Nice if you’re only here for a few days.

If you love a good walking tour, check out the options below:

When to Visit Nice

You should visit Nice whenever you want. You may not get beach time outside of the summer months, but there is plenty to do in Nice year-round. Just pack for potential inclement weather if you visit in the spring and fall.

Where to Stay in Nice

We stayed at the Hostel Ozz Nice and would highly recommend it. They have both hostel-type accommodations and private rooms with bathrooms. This is budget lodging, for sure, so expect small spaces. You’ll have more euro for exploring the Riviera, though!

Want more options? Check out the map below for accommodations in Nice:

Is Nice worth visiting?

Nice is worth visiting as the perfect mix of French Riviera glam, beaches, vibrant arts and food scene, and scenic vistas.

Let’s go back to the food for a second. I found the dining here to be some of the best in France, in part because of the Mediterranean flavors found in their cuisine.

I’m sure I’ll be back in Nice, perhaps in the summer sometime when the beach bod is ready.

Planning more travel in France? Use these guides:

• Love Christmas Markets? Visit Strasbourg
• Visit the Holiday Wonderland of Colmar
• Plan the Best Golf Trip to Le Golf National
• Is Paris Worth the Trip? Check Out My Guide
• A Guide to the Vibrant City of Marseille

I’m not done yet! Check out these European guides:

• Bruges to Brussels: A Complete Guide
• Best Things to Do in Brussels
• How to Plan a Day Trip to Lille, France
• Should You Plan a Warsaw Trip? Here’s a Guide
• A Christmas Guide to Frankfurt, Germany

Want to see more?