Take a Walk Through Pont-Aven, a Giverny Alternative

Giverny in France’s Normandy region is a popular destination for fans of Impressionist art and Emily in Paris. (I know you’ve watched it. No sense in denying it.)

It was the home of Claude Monet, and its gardens have been immortalized by artists all over the world since.

All of that also means it can get super crowded. We’ve had luck on visits in shoulder season, but it’s becoming harder and harder to plan a trip where you’re not vying for space amongst those blooms.

That’s where Pont-Aven comes in. This small village in Brittany, the region just west of Normandy, doesn’t have a Monet connection, but it has a storied history of its own. It’s also pretty low on tourists, despite similar vibes and artistic merit as Giverny.

Pont-Aven was a favorite of Paul Gauguin, a post-Impressionist artist known for his bold colors, simplified forms, and love for this Breton town. Gauguin lived in Pont-Aven at one point before moving to Tahiti to seek inspiration and island cocktails, I imagine. 

We only had an afternoon here on a longer road trip through Brittany, but it was enough to fall in love with and appreciate a place that doesn’t feel overtouristed. Let’s take a walk through Pont-Aven.

Where is Pont-Aven?

Pont-Aven is in the Brittany region and Finistère department of northwestern France, near the southern coast. It sits on the picturesque Aven River.

Larger towns nearby that you may have heard of are Quimper, about 30 minutes northwest, and Lorient, about 30 minutes southeast.

Getting to Pont-Aven

We visited Pont-Aven on a longer road trip from Brittany. That day, we drove from Pont-l’Abbé, another small town about 40 minutes away, to Muzillac, about an hour and 15 minutes’ worth of driving.

It was a nice break mid-drive to see why the village was so inspiring for so many artists.

If you’re flying into Paris, you can take a TGV train from the city to larger towns like Quimper. From there, you can take a local bus or hire a car for a shorter drive. (It’s only half an hour from Quimper, but about six hours from Paris.)

You can also fly into smaller regional airports in Nantes or Lorient, but note that those flights are quite pricey for how short they are. This is by design to coax you into public transit.

READ MORE: Paris is always worth the trip. If that’s where you’re starting, check out all of my reasons why!

Want to watch a video of our walk through Pont-Aven? Check it out:

Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School 

Pont-Aven is most well known for its connection to the painter Gauguin, who played a central role in forming the Pont-Aven School. This was a group of artists who gathered in the small Breton village in the late 19th century. 

I imagine it was quite the scene.

Seeking a break from academic tradition, they embraced bold colors and emotional expression that this place inspired.

Gauguin, along with Émile Bernard and others, developed a new style here called Synthetism, which emphasized flat planes of color and symbolism over naturalism. 

These artists were inspired by Brittany’s rural life and folk traditions, which led the way for later movements like Fauvism and forms of abstraction.

I’m not an arts scholar, by the way. I just like to sound like one.

Note: Gauguin himself lived in town at the Pension Gloanec, a boarding house, often with other fellow artists. You can see the old building at 5 Place Paul Gauguin, although it’s a bookshop today.

Things to See on a Walk Through Pont-Aven

This village is easy to explore on foot, with plenty of opportunities to rest and take in your surroundings at its art galleries, cafés, and scenic spots.

While we ran into a guided walking tour on our DIY adventure, it’s unlikely you’ll need to wait long for opportunities with the best photo stops, if you have to wait at all.

The Aven River

Park your car in any of the lots near the river or city center. The lot we picked was free with plenty of spots near where you’ll see “Moulin neuf (3)” marked on your map apps.

That designates the spot of an old watermill. While it’s no longer there, hence the hilariously low rating of that spot on search engines, Pont-Aven was once famous for the 15 watermills (not windmills) that lined the river.

These mills used the river’s current to grind grain and were a vital part of the town’s economy. 

Fun fact: Moulin du Grand Poulguin is one of the only remaining. It now houses a poorly reviewed restaurant while preserving the old millworks inside. If you look for “moulin” on your map apps during your walk, you might spot some other remnants, like parts of exposed mill wheels or the old stonework.

The Bois d’Amour

The Bois d’Amour, or the Wood of Love, is a wooded path that snakes along the Aven River upstream. It’s whimsical enough that I nearly burst out into a birdsong of my own, but even in silence, it’s pretty charming.

You’ll be shaded by chestnut and beech trees, with dappled light sneaking its way into view as you make your way to the center of town. 

It’s easy to understand why this setting captivated painters of the Pont-Aven School, especially Gauguin. He painted several works here, like The White River.

As you walk, you’ll come upon plaques that describe the woods’ connection to Gauguin and other artists. 

Note: Most of the signage is in French, but we have technology to help you with that these days if you’re curious to learn more about what you’re looking at as you pass by.

The easiest loop through the woods to the chapel I’ll get into in a bit is about two miles, but you can get quite a few steps wandering your way through here.

A popular option is the 4.3-mile loop that goes deeper into the woods. AllTrails has a map for you if you’re interested in that.

Promenade Xavier Grall

Break away from the woods for a stroll down the pedestrian-only riverside walk named after Breton poet Xavier Grall. You’re walking an elevated boardwalk here rather than the dirt footpath you started with, so you’ll get a unique view of the river from here.

You’ll find a bronze memorial plaque in honor of Grall himself at the far end of the promenade.

Grall was known for writing that celebrated Brittany’s culture and identity. He even advocated for Breton autonomy and language revival. 

Fun fact: Brittany is a Celtic region with its own language, closely related to Welsh and Cornish. It’s still spoken today, especially in western Brittany. 

You’ll start seeing more of the town’s architecture on your walk here, beautifully framed by seasonal flowers and fruit trees.

While many of the buildings are now used for housing or restaurants, at one point, this is where you’d see some of the town’s scenic watermills.

We peeled off to get some coffee at Ty-Bistr’O near the promenade. We got seats with a view of the water and the Chaos de l’Aven, a natural feature where the river flows through a series of oversized granite boulders.

There were some kids messing around in there during our visit as a way to cool off, but it looked pretty slippery to me. I wouldn’t recommend it, especially if you’re afflicted with my level of clumsiness.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Pont-Aven

The Musée des Beaux‑Arts de Pont‑Aven, which sometimes goes by the simpler Museum of Pont‑Aven, is on most itineraries for things to do while you’re here. It operates out of the restored Hôtel Julia, so it’s architecturally impressive, too.

We had our dog, Kimmy, with us, so we didn’t step inside, but this is your best opportunity while in town to see works from Gauguin and others like Maurice Denis.

They have temporary exhibitions throughout the year, as well, including a witches-themed one during our visit.

Rue des Meunières

You might pass by this street anyway, as this is where the town’s tourist office is located. Either way, it’s a charming and picturesque street named after the millers, or meunières, who once worked the town’s many water mills.

Take some time to admire the cobbled lane that winds its way past the granite houses along the Aven River. Perhaps some glamour shots on one of the old footbridges are in order. Seriously, there’s so much in this town that’s inspiring.

Chapelle de Trémalo

We were only visiting for a short stay, so at this point, we returned back into the woods for a walk to this 16th-century chapel. Chapelle de Trémalo is known for housing the wooden crucifix that inspired Gauguin’s Yellow Christ. 

We saw a car of older folks driving right up to the chapel, but it didn’t seem like something that was cool for most. It’s an easy walk of about 20 minutes from the historic center, and it’s all scenic along the way, especially when the hydrangeas are in bloom.

The chapel itself is free to visit and will only take a few minutes of time. Look up at the rafters to see the crucifix and Gauguin’s inspiration.

If you’re lucky, you’ll find some artists taking a shot at renderings of their own while you’re here.

Where to Eat in Pont-Aven

If you’re not ready to leave this charming village just yet, there are all kinds of spots to grab a bite before you continue on your Brittany adventures.

Ty-Bistr’O, the spot we lounged at for coffee, had a nice lunch menu of French classics and tartes. Aven Ice Café is highly rated for its sweet and savory waffles.

Le Taliman is a popular crêperie known for its apple galette flambéed with Brittany’s version of Calvados, a Normandy brandy.

READ MORE: Much of Normandy reminds us of Ireland. The Cliffs of Étretat are a great example!

If you want to taste the best pizza in France, though, a 10-minute drive to nearby Riec-sur-Bélon will get you to La Casa di Nathano.

Seriously, we’ve talked about it since, and this shop serves up pies that rival most of what we’ve tasted in Italy, too, and I’m not being hyperbolic. If they have the Parma ham option available with the big ol’ burrata ball in the middle, you’ll want to start there.

Where to Stay Near Pont-Aven

We visited Pont-Aven as an in-between stop on our way to our next base in Brittany, but you can certainly find accommodations nearby if you fall in love with this place. Use the map below to help with your browsing:

Art lovers, it’s time to discover Pont-Aven.

This village isn’t big on attractions, but it is big on creative vibes that became a magnet for 19th-century artists like Gauguin. Pont-Aven has retained much of what drew so many to this place years ago.

The best part is that despite its charms, it has a fraction of the tourists of other artist meccas like Giverny. This is one you won’t want to miss if you’re planning a trip to Brittany or regions nearby in France.

Traveling elsewhere in France? Check these out:

• A Guide to Visiting Mont-Saint-Michel
• Things We’ve Learned After Living in France
• See the Best Castles in the Loire Valley
• A Guide to Nice, France, When it’s Rainy
• Plan a Trip to Lille on the Belgian Border

More guides for trips to France:

• Plan the Best Day in Montpellier
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