Steal This Itinerary for a Long Weekend in Kraków

I don’t have personal connections to Kraków. My dad grew up near Warsaw and my mom is from a small town near the border with Belarus. Even so, the city was at the top of my list when I visited Poland for the first time.

For most travelers, including myself, Kraków is the gateway to Poland. It’s all you imagine the old country to be: cobblestone streets, smells of baked goods wafting through the air, and a city steeped in history.

It helps that much of the city center was preserved during World War II, but even in its darker corners, there’s a feeling of wonder when you visit. This is a city that has lived through a lot, and it deserves some thoughtful exploration on the part of its visitors.

I’ve returned with Brian since, and it was potentially even more meaningful because of a day trip we tacked on at the end of our trip. This itinerary for a long weekend in Kraków will get into all of it.

Is a weekend enough in Kraków?

You need at least two days in Kraków to see the city’s main attractions. Three days will allow you to leave the city limits and go on a day trip outside of Kraków.

I know. I hate guides that take me out of the city I’m visiting, too. It’ll be OK, especially when you see what I suggest.

How to Spend a Weekend in Kraków

You can spend a weekend in Kraków like this:

• Explore Wawel Royal Castle.
• See the views from Wawel Cathedral.
• Meet the fire-breathing Wawel Dragon.
• Stroll the Wisła River.
• Eat at a traditional milk bar.
• Visit the Main Market Square.
• Explore Kazimierz and the city’s World War II history.
• Take a day trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

A Weekend in Kraków: Day 1

I’m assuming two full days to see what there is to see in terms of Kraków attractions, with a possible day trip planned on the third day.

If you arrived in the evening on the previous day, try to stay up as late as you can, and then get some rest. A plate of buttered pierogi should do the trick as far as traditional Polish food comas are concerned.

Stop 1: Breakfast

Get yourself caffeinated and well-fed for an active morning exploring Wawel Hill. For proximity to your next stop, try the Gossip Cafe, a budget-friendly eatery serving up a delicious breakfast menu.

Grabbing a pastry or two to go isn’t a bad idea, either. You have lots to accomplish this morning.

Stop 2: Wawel Royal Castle

You want to tackle the sites on Wawel Hill on your first day in Kraków just in case you hit some snags.

The most iconic of the sites on the hill is Wawel Royal Castle, among the first UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. There are separate entry tickets for the various sections of the Wawel castle grounds.

If you’re pressed for time, at the very least you’ll want to check out the staterooms and the crown treasury and armory.

The royal apartments are also interesting, but only accessible with a guide. If you’re into hearing more about the history of the castle, I’d recommend it.

Entry to the castle is on the hour to avoid overcrowding. Thankfully, reservations are now available online. (They weren’t when we visited, but as we weren’t too far of a walk from the castle, we reserved a spot in person.

The castle exhibit hours vary a bit, with shorter hours on Mondays. Generally, expect access to the castle sites from 9:30am-5pm daily. The grounds shut down at dusk.

READ MORE: Love a good castle? I’ll go to Fontainebleau over Versailles any day!

Stop 3: Wawel Cathedral

The Wawel Cathedral is an impressive site no matter where you’re standing, but the real intrigue is inside. As long as there’s not a mass happening, take your time to admire the numerous altars and chapels inside the church walls.

Next, climb down and tour the Royal Crypts to see the final resting place of Poland’s royalty, and, more recently, former Polish President Lech Kaczyński.

You’ll need to return to some elevation for the best views of the city. Climb a series of wooden staircases to get to the Royal Sigismund Bell, the largest of the five bells hanging in the cathedral.

On my first visit there, my mother made me rub it for good luck, so rub it I did. I’ll leave that up to you.

The highlight of the John Paul II Cathedral Museum is the treasury room, a collection of royal artifacts from as far back as the 11th century.

Tickets to the cathedral museum, Royal Sigismund Bell tower, and crypts are available at the ticket office, which is opposite the entrance to Wawel Cathedral. For more information on hours and ticketing, visit the cathedral’s website.

Stop 4: Smok Wawelski

You can’t leave Kraków without visiting Smok Wawelski, or the Wawel Dragon. To get there, you’ll have to climb through his cave, which at one point also served as a brothel. Imagine the havoc wreaked by the dragon in medieval times.

The legend goes that the dragon destroyed villagers’ farmlands back in the day and ate their young. Savage.

Once you’ve made it outside the cave, you’ll see it: the dragon. OK, so it’s a bronze statue of a dragon, but it breathes fire periodically. It’s cheesy but quintessential Kraków.

Purchase tickets outside the entrance to the dragon’s lair. Have some small bills or coins ready, as you’ll be getting tickets from a machine.

Stop 5: Stroll the Vistula/Wisła River

The dragon has a nice setup. He’s overlooking the Vistula River, or the Wisła if you’re Polish. Take a stroll if you’re not hangry by this point as the views here are just a delight.

Stop 6: Lunch

You’re likely hungry by now, so enjoy yourself a late lunch, or Polish dinner as I like to call it. Poles love eating dinner around 2pm. It’s a thing, and I love it, especially when I’ve been exposed to meals at less reasonable hours.

When I was growing up, my grandmother would have a plate of spaghetti waiting for me right after school. Yes, I’m Polish, but every kid loves spaghetti.

Options nearby include Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą, a traditional milk bar, which is what Poles call cafeterias around here. This is where you’ll find homestyle Polish food. Don’t miss out on whatever the soup of the day is. Hopefully, it’s żurek, a sour rye soup.

Another option is Ambasada Śledzia, a herring spot that literally translates to “Herring Embassy.” It’s an acquired taste, I hear. I grew up on pickled herring, so I think it’s more of a delicacy than something to wrap your head around.

Be brave and try it. You’ll find lots of varieties here, in addition to a daily menu of bar snacks that may be less offensive to your delicate palate.

Stop 7: Main Market Square/Rynek Główny

Continue your historical tour of Kraków in the heart of the city, the main square, or Rynek Główny. This is Old Town, or the Stare Miasto, one of the most atmospheric areas of the city.

Fun fact: If you want to learn more about your surroundings, there’s a museum underneath your feet that’s pretty great. You’ll be able to explore the most recent excavations of the site before all of the tchotchke shops came in.

Tickets to the Rynek Underground museum should be reserved in advance if you’re interested, as admission is limited. If you’re in the square on a Tuesday, tickets are free, but again, must be reserved in advance.

You can reserve tickets online at the museum’s website. Peek at the website for seasonal hours. While you’re in Old Town, make sure to:

• Visit the Cloth Hall, or Sukiennice. Imagine it as it once was, a market where the city folk got their wares. The market is generally open Tues-Sun from 9am, but the vendors themselves dictate how late they stay open.
• See the Town Hall Tower. As you’ve already been to the bell towers in the Wawel Cathedral, you won’t be that impressed by the views here. The exterior’s impressive enough, though.
• Floriańska Street: Walk ul. Floriańska, one of the most famous promenades in the city and the start of the Royal Road. The street is part of the old town grids drawn up in 1257.

Stop 8: St. Mary’s Basilica

While on the square, spend some time gawking at the beautiful St. Mary’s Basilica. Every hour on the hour, you’ll hear a bugle bust out some jams, or, more specifically, the first few notes of the St. Mary’s Trumpet Call.

The story goes that a trumpeter doing the same was shot in the neck right at that moment in the song by invaders of the city.

The basilica itself is gorgeous. Tickets are only available on-site, but you don’t need to reserve them in advance. Basilica hours can vary based on when services and special events are held.

Additional information, including a mass schedule, is available on the church’s website.

Stop 9: Wódka Cafe Bar

It’s time to reward your hard work exploring the city with some flights at the Wódka Cafe Bar. Remember, Poles don’t just shoot the vodka. They sip it.

Consider this when you’re presented with whatever delights you’ve ordered. Don’t miss the fun flavors, like elderberry and fig, in addition to the ones that resemble rubbing alcohol.

Stop 10: Dinner

There’s only one thing left to do after you’ve had some vodka. You likely need some sausages now.

The best of the best comes from the blue sausage van parked at the intersection of Blich and Grzegórzecka streets. You’ll get a plate of sausage, some bread, and a soda if you’re thirsty. What more do you need?

They start setting up in the evening around 8pm and sling sausages until well after you’re tucked into bed.

A Weekend in Kraków: Day 2

Your second day will be spent outside of the main city center as you explore some of the darker sides of Kraków’s history and its Jewish heart.

We like to do lots of walking on our European vacations but keep in mind that it’s a haul from the city center to your first big stop today. It’s about two miles from the main market square to the Schindler factory, for example.

If you’d like to use public transportation to get around today, you’ll have the option of taking the train from the main station, the bus, or the tram. The tram is the most efficient. You’ll be looking for the Pl. Bohaterów Getta stop.

Stop 1: Breakfast

Grab some pastries before you start your adventure across the river. If you’re walking from the main square, you’ll pass through the neighborhood of Kazimierz on the way. Don’t worry. You’ll be back.

A great breakfast spot while you’re there, though, is Ranny Ptaszek, which means “Morning Bird.”

Stop 2: Father Bernatek Footbridge

Cross at the Father Bernatek Footbridge to get across the Wisła River. The bridge, which opened in 2010, has since been upgraded since with some pretty impressive sculptures by artist Jerzy Kędziora.

Stop 3: Ghetto Wall Fragment

If you’re walking, take a short detour to see the largest fragment of a wall from the old Jewish ghetto on ul. Lwowska. There are additional fragments throughout the city, but this one is the most prominent.

To me, what was most striking was the wall’s resemblance to tombstones.

Stop 4: Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory

Popularized by Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List, the factory where the story takes place is a popular stop on any Kraków itinerary.

While the factory, now a museum, does include some information on the history of Schindler, the majority of the museum is dedicated to the Nazi occupation of Kraków.

Note: I’ve seen some reviews of the museum complain about this after the fact, as they were expecting “more Schindler stuff,” per one review. I found the visit powerful regardless, but I also knew what to expect going in.

I highly recommend booking tickets in advance of your visit. Otherwise, particularly in the summer, you risk having to stand in a long, hot line for an indeterminate amount of time.

You may book tickets online on the museum website. Once you have your tickets, make sure that you’re at the museum 10 minutes ahead of your ticket time. You’ll be able to walk right in, bypassing all those folks in line who didn’t do the same.

Stop 5: Lunch

Treat yourself to a nice meal at Emalia Zabłocie after. The eatery has daily lunch specials, a meat and a vegetarian option, and a soup of the day, which I always love. Reservations are available online.

Another option if you’re headed back to Kazimierz from here is Zapiekanki u Endziora, or Enzior on some apps. This is the place to get yourself some zapiekanki, which are essentially French bread pizzas. They’re a good call at the end of the night, too.

Stop 6: Płaszów

We had time to check out both Płaszów and head to the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz after. If you also have time for both, start in Płaszów as we did. There are more food and drink options in Kazimierz, which you can reward yourself with after a busy day.

If you are interested in exploring Płaszów, keep in mind that it’s another mile south of the Schindler factory. Public transportation is available if you don’t want to hoof it from the factory or central Kraków.

Your easiest route from the Schindler factory is taking the tram three stops from Kraków Zabłocie to the stop Cmentarz Podgórski and walking from there.

There are no guides in Płaszów, a Nazi work camp turned extermination site. There also isn’t much left of the concentration camp, but the vastness of the surrounding fields and remaining rubble is compelling nonetheless.

Starting from north to south at the intersection of ul. Wielicka and ul. Jerozolimska, you’ll pass by the main gate and watchtowers. You should see signage here commemorating the site.

Just south of the main gate, you’ll walk past the remains of the old guardhouse, followed by ruins of a former Jewish funeral home.

Most visitors to Płaszów are here to take a look at the Grey House, which was left well-preserved after the war.

This was the former headquarters of the SS officers at the camp and Nazi commandant Amon Göth’s personal torture chamber. There are plans to eventually turn the site into a museum.

Outside the house, you’ll see a memorial dedicated to Sarah Schenirer, who founded the first Jewish school for girls in the city. Schenirer died before the main events of the war. Just south of the gravesite, you’ll see a memorial to the lives lost at the camp.

If you’re interested in reading more about the history of Płaszów and the concentration camp, the History Channel has some excellent information posted online.

Stop 7: Kazimierz

If you only have time for either Płaszów or Kazimierz and it’s unlikely you’ll be back in these parts any time soon, head to Kazimierz. Its history is just as significant as the center of Jewish life before its destruction in World War II.

Fun fact: The neighborhood fell into some sketchy times in the Communist era but has since become a vibrant part of the city that’s a little bit hipster, while still retaining that Old World charm.

The best way to see Kazimierz is on your feet. Check out some highlights below of this historic district, including the neighborhood’s most important synagogues:

• Ul. Szeroka: This is the main square, once a marketplace for Jewish merchants. Today, you’ll find eateries at a variety of price points and two important synagogues to the city’s history on either end: the Old Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue.
• Ul. Szeroka 6: While on the same street, don’t miss ul. Szeroka 6, a former bathhouse. Its claim to fame, or perhaps to infamy in this case, was in 1597. The wooden floor collapsed at the site, drowning 10 women there.
• Ul. Józefa: Look up at ul. Józefa 38 and you’ll be met with the view of the High Synagogue, the tallest of its kind in the city when it was built.
• Ul. Kupa: The Izaak Synagogue at ul. Kupa 18 houses an exhibition for visitors on the history of Kazimierz and events there during World War II. At the intersection with ul. Warszauera, see the 17th-century Kupa Synagogue.
• Plac Nowy: Plac Nowy is the main square of Kazimierz and a great place to pick up some zapiekanki. It may not be as impressive as the main market square in the center of the city, but this is the heart of Kazimierz.
• Ul. Meiselsa: This street is also known as ul. Rabina Beera Meiselsa after Polish Rabbi Dow Ber Meisels. The passageway at ul. Meiselsa 17 was in Schindler’s List. At the intersection of ul. Bożego Ciała, check out the Gene Kelly mural.

Stop 7: Happy Hour

You’ve earned yourself some terrific cocktail times, and lucky for you, there’s plenty of that in Kazimierz, a hub for nightlife in Kraków. The Mleczarnia, a beer garden, is perfect for warm weather days.

Stara Zajezdnia, also known by its full name, the Stara Zajezdnia Kraków by DeSilva, is also a good option. In addition to the beer options, you can also grab some bar snacks here if you don’t have room for a full dinner afterward.

Stop 8: Dinner

If you haven’t yet been to Skwer Judah, the food truck square is a great option for diverse food options. You can’t miss it once you’re there. There’s a huge mural of who I can only assume is Judah as the backdrop.

Another delightful option or in addition to what you found at Skwer Judah is Pierogi Mr. Vincent, a pierogi heaven.

I’ve had some legit pierogi in my life growing up in Chicago, America’s Warsaw, but there’s just something special about having the dumplings in the Motherland.

A Weekend in Kraków: Day 3

If you’re lucky enough to have a bonus day on your weekend in Kraków, you can choose your own adventure with a day trip out of the city. I

f this is your first time here, I strongly suggest visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau, the largest of the German Nazi concentration camps. My mother refused to go with me on my first trip to Poland, and not sharing that with her is a regret I have to this day.

I was able to go on a return trip and put together a detailed guide to help you make it happen.

Here are a few more options if you have even more time in Kraków or have already visited the Auschwitz concentration camp:

• Ojców National Park: Nature lovers will enjoy this one. You can see a 14th-century castle, tour the largest cave in the region, and get a good dose of some of that Polish fresh air.
• Wieliczka Salt Mine: This was my mom’s choice for us on our trip together. It’s a little cheesy to start when you start encountering the figures made from salt, but the UNESCO World Heritage site is pretty astounding. Salt mines generally are.
• Zakopane: This is the base for exploration in the Tatra Mountains and relaxation if you’re here for spas and thermal springs. The mountain town is also the home of oscypek, a smoked sheep’s milk cheese that I’ve eaten quite a few pounds of.

READ MORE: Warsaw’s a little far for a day trip, but it is worth a visit as you explore Poland. Check out my guide!

All of these options offer a full day of fun. If you arrive back in Kraków hungry,

With More Time in Kraków

Even though I’ve been twice now, there is still plenty on my list for future trips. Here are a few more options for Kraków attractions on a repeat weekend break:

• Climb Kościuszko Mound, an artificial hill built in honor of national hero Tadeusz Kościuszko with panoramic views.
• Check out the art at the MOCAK (Museum of Contemporary Art), full of exhibits of both Polish and international artists.
• See the Collegium Maius, the oldest building of Jagiellonian University.
• Visit the Nowa Huta District, a socialist realist neighborhood from the Communist era.
• Shop at Stary Kleparz and hand out with locals buying produce and Polish foods.

Getting Around Kraków

Kraków is a very walkable city as long as you’re staying somewhere within walking distance of that you’ll want to see there.

Otherwise, the city is well-connected by a system of buses and trams, along with a train line to take you outside the city limits. The city’s public transportation is budget-friendly and easy to navigate.

Tickets you purchase for travel within the city limits are good for both the buses and trams. You may purchase a single-fare ticket for your occasional trips around Kraków or a ticket valid for a certain amount of time.

As our accommodations were always well within walking distance of the main sights, we found that the single-fare tickets were suitable for our needs. For timetable information, visit the MPK website.

Note: I’d caution against taxis if you’re able to avoid them, in part because the city is so well-connected by public transportation. You’ll likely also encounter a language barrier, which can lead to you overpaying for your trip.

While I’m all about self-guided tours, especially in Europe, I understand how it can be intimidating. A good guided tour is always an option.

If you’re interested in a guided tour of Kraków proper, check out the highly-rated tours below:

Is Kraków expensive?

Kraków is more affordable compared to other major European cities. Dining out, public transport, and cultural activities are all budget-friendly. While the Old Town and tourist hotspots may have higher prices, you can find good deals outside of central Kraków.

Where to Stay in Kraków

We stayed at the Hotel Europejski on our most recent trip. You’re an easy walk to the Main Market Square from this one. I loved the Old World charm, too.

My mom and I stayed in Kazimierz during our trip together, but the short-term rental we liked is no longer listed. That neighborhood is also very fun. You’ll just have a little bit of a longer walk to Old Town.

Use the map below to explore your options:

Kraków is always worth visiting.

It’s more budget-friendly than most big European cities that offer this much historical intrigue and has fully arrived as a foodie destination. It’s also an excellent base for day trips within a short drive of the city.

We’d be pleased as punch if we found ourselves back in the city for a longer city. It could be in the cards!

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