Tips for Visiting Salzburg During Perchten Season

If you’ve been here for any length of time, you probably won’t be surprised to learn that I planned an entire trip to Austria around seeing some Christmas demons.

I mean, the idea of Christmas markets also drove the decision, as it’s become customary for us to plan trips to markets each winter.

But when I heard there’s a custom of creepy ghouls that parade through the streets of Salzburg right before Christmas, I knew we had to make it happen. Christmas is great, but Halloween is my favorite, and this felt like the perfect combination of both.

This guide to the Perchten of Salzburg gets into this wild tradition. I talk about it differs from other stuff out there — I see you, Krampus — and how to make it happen for your next winter trip.

Quick Tips for Your Salzburg Visit

Your Flight: Find deals to Salzburg Airport using Skyscanner. If you’re traveling from farther away, you may find better options out of Munich Airport. Love those deals? Subscribe to Going.

Your Accommodations: Browse Booking.com or Hotels.com for your options in Salzburg. Vrbo is my Airbnb alternative.

Your Ride: Salzburg is very walkable, with a nice trolleybus and bus network. If you’re exploring the countryside after the frights, book a rental car ahead of time, especially during the winter holidays.

Top Spots: You’re here for the Perchten, but for a more traditional Christmas market experience, visit Hellbrunn Palace and Fortress Hohensalzburg.

Disclosure: Travel on the Reg uses affiliate links to keep things running around here. At no additional cost to you, I earn a lil’ commission if you make a purchase. Any income earned supports the upkeep of this site. I appreciate you!

Who (or What) Are the Perchten?

The Perchten tradition in Salzburg and across the Austrian Alps dates back centuries, rooted in pre-Christian Alpine folklore.

It’s centered around the goddess Perchta (or Berchta), a winter spirit who was said to roam the mountains during Advent, particularly the 12 Nights of Christmas.

Fun fact: Her thing was rewarding the diligent and punishing the lazy, so she was all about that hustle mindset.

Over time, her myth evolved into the Perchtenlauf, a parade of masked figures known as Perchten. They appear between late December and early January as one of the most unique Alpine region folklore celebrations.

A scary Perchten walks the parade route in Salzburg.

These figures can be beautiful (“Schönperchten”) or frightening (“Schiachperchten”), symbolizing the dual forces of good and evil and light and dark. They’re meant to give off vibes of the old year making way for the new.

I’ll be honest. Even the perchten meant to be “beautiful” were still pretty creepy to me. Their masks are generally less grotesque, often painted and adorned with flowers, beads, or bright furs.

One during our visit looked like Winter himself, with a long white beard and whimsical cane. I still felt cursed after he looked me in the eye, though.

A Perchten dressed as winter in Salzburg

Krampus vs. Perchten

Krampus is its own thing.

Krampus is tied directly to Christmas and Saint Nicholas, appearing in early December as the mischievous or downright terrifying companion who punishes naughty children.

His role is singular and very specific: scare or discipline misbehaving kids before the gifts arrive.

Krampus runs usually feature one horned, devilish creature at a time, often accompanied by a small group of helpers to find the naughty ones in the crowd.

Perchten belong to the midwinter period stretching from Christmas to Epiphany. These are the 12 nights known in Alpine folklore as the Rauhnächte, when spirits were believed to roam freely.

Fun fact: The Perchten don’t punish misbehavior at Salzburg winter festivals. Their purpose is purification and protection, no matter what it may feel like to you at the parade.

They’re the spirits of winter, tasked with driving out evil and ushering in good fortune for the new year. Sometimes that still involves a spanking, but I’ll get into that later.

A Perchten walking the parade route in Salzburg.

While Krampus is a solo performer or a small contingent, Perchten parades are generally a full spectacle. You’ll see dozens of masked figures, dressed in furs, wooden masks, and clanging cowbells, flood the streets.

When and Where to See the Perchten Parade

Mileage: 1pm, Dec. 21
Difficulty Level: Dom- und Residenzplatz, Salzburg

If you’re planning a trip to see the Perchten, Salzburg is the place to go. While Perchten season runs roughly from late December through early January, the traditional Perchten run happens on Dec. 21 each year.

Note: This isn’t arbitrary. It coincides with Thomas Night and the Winter Solstice, the longest night of the year. That makes it a natural time for pagan rituals meant to ward off evil and darkness.

In this context, the Perchten’s purpose is highly symbolic. Their wild, bell-clanging parade drives out evil spirits and ushers in good fortune for the new year. Remember that when they’re harassing you on the sidelines.

A woman watches a masked figure at a Perchten parade in Salzburg.

The traditional Perchten Run in Salzburg takes place at Dom- und Residenzplatz, the central squares in the heart of Salzburg’s Old Town.

Note: This is where you’ll find the city’s Christkindlmarkt, one of Austria’s most famous Christmas markets.

During the Perchten run, the squares transform into a parade route for the wild ones to do their thing.

The event typically begins in the early afternoon, with the main procession starting at 1pm. We got there late and still enjoyed plenty of shenanigans.

Arrive right at the kickoff, though, and you’ll be treated to the opening ceremonies.

We missed that part, but I’ve seen footage of torchbearers entering the square to add a primal feel. Before the main Perchten arrive, local assistants or young performers often ring loud bells to announce that the spirits are coming.

The warning is appreciated, I’m sure.

What It’s Like to See the Perchtenlauf in Salzburg

A Perchten prowls the streets at a Salzburg parade.

Today, Salzburg’s Perchten runs feature men, women, and children dressed in traditional Austrian masks, animal furs, and cowbells, prowling through the streets. Some of them are pounding drums or blaring horns, so it’s all pretty wild.

I loved it.

We arrived just in time to watch the Perchten parading around Residenzplatz, and it felt like stepping into another world. It certainly didn’t feel like the usual Christmas market stuff.

Those are typically so whimsical and cute, even when I have too much mulled wine in my system.

It was chaotic in the best possible way. Some of the masked folk tugged at our winter hats, pulling them over our eyes or messing up our hair. Some of them were there to scare, with their teeth bared and eyes wild.

You can see what I mean in the clip below:

It made the parade feel like Halloween collided with Christmas in the middle of winter, which is about as surreal as it sounds.

The best part is that I didn’t see one kid in the audience who was freaked out by the parade of freaks, and there were some small kids in attendance. It was a little unnerving at first, but it quickly became my favorite Christmas market experience to date.

How to Prepare for the Perchtenlauf

A close look at a Perchten mask in Salzburg

I’m not some Perchten expert at this point, as we’ve only seen them once, but I do have some tips for you to help you plan your visit to Salzburg:

Plan ahead. Salzburg’s traditional run happens right before Christmas. Generally, the closer you are to Christmas, the busier things get at Christmas markets overall. Book accommodations early.
Dress for the weather. The runs take place outdoors in the middle of winter. Warm clothes, gloves, hats, and boots are a great idea. All accessories are fair game for the Perchten to mess with if they get close, though.
Timing matters. Arrive early if you want to see the opening ceremonies. If you miss it, you’ll still be able to secure a good viewing spot. Try to stay a while, too. The energy ramps up as more Perchten enter the square.
Take LOTS of photos. You’ll want to remember this. Keep your camera at the ready, or have your friends film some of the action. It all happens pretty fast.
Protect your stuff. The Perchten can be playful. They tug hats, scarves, and occasionally bags. If you’re worried, tuck anything you don’t want touched away from their prying fingers. (They won’t steal anything, just mess with it.)
Keep an open mind. The Perchtenlauf can be loud, chaotic, and a little overwhelming. Embrace the weird immersion of it all and let yourself enjoy the spectacle. I promise it’ll be hard to top a holiday experience like this one.
Be respectful. While the Perchten will likely mess with you, you’re not there to give it back to them. They’re trying to purify, after all. You’re a spectator. Don’t touch their masks or costumes, and let them approach you.
You’ve been warned. While I didn’t see any kids freak out (and we don’t have any of our own), that doesn’t mean this thing will jive with the more sensitive littles out there. Sometimes things can feel scary, especially for kids sensitive to noise.

Once you’re done with the Perchten, Salzburg has some very cute Christmas markets for you to explore that aren’t as demonic. I have a detailed, updated guide to those. If you’re short on time, Hellbrunn Palace and Fortress Hohensalzburg were our favorites.

Where to Stay in Salzburg

The apartment we shared with our group is no longer available online, but Salzburg is a popular Christmas destination with lots of accommodation options.

To browse those options, use the map below:

Salzburg’s Perchten are a must-see, at least once.

If Austria’s Christmas markets are sugar and spice, the Perchtenlauf is fire and fury, and that’s exactly why I loved it.

Where else can you sip mulled wine one minute and be chased by horned spirits the next? It’s a weird, loud, and wonderful addition to the Christmas season, and I think I’ve given myself a nice primer for a trip to see the Krampus parades in the future.

Planning travel nearby? Check out these guides to Poland:

More guides for travel throughout Europe:

Want to see more?

Subscribe to my biweekly newsletter for hot travel tips I come across, weird stories you won’t see elsewhere and perhaps lifelong friendship.

Too much, or just enough?