Ditch the Tourists in Santorini on a Hike from Oia to Fira 

Santorini, Greece, is super touristy, especially if you’re visiting the main towns, Oia and Fira. Those are the two towns the cruisers target during their limited time on the island, and likely where day trippers from other Greek islands focus their energies.

I don’t even blame them. If you only have a day here, the two towns are likely what you’ve seen Instagram glory about. While some of that is overblown, I can’t tell you not to visit the two most popular spots on the island. 

That’d be rude, and it’d prevent you from forming your own opinions.

I can tell you that there’s a better, more adventurous way of seeing both, especially if you like a vacation with a little movement. You can hike from Oia to Fira! Spread it out over the course of most of your day, and it’s not even that painful. 

You can hike from Oia to Fira.

I believe in you. Honestly, for much of the journey, it’s more like a walk from Oia to Fira. It’s one of the most scenic walks on Santorini, honestly, and it allows you to ditch some of the tourists on either end for excellent views in the middle.

READ MORE: I guess you have to decide if Santorini is worth your time first, though. Check out my thoughts!

How long is the hike from Oia to Fira?

The full route from Oia to Fira is about six miles (10 km), but timing really depends on things like pace and how often you stop for photos and breaks.

We started in Oia in the morning and didn’t finish the trail until late afternoon in Fira, but we stopped for snacks, lots of photos, and lunch. We also added a side quest to Skaros Rock, which I’ll get into later.

If you want to watch some of our struggles (I’m kidding, mostly), check out the video below:

Walking to Oia from Fira is a thing, too.

Most guides actually have you hiking from Fira and going north to Oia. Starting in Oia is slightly more challenging. There’s more uphill climbing this way. Starting in Fira also means you finish up in one of the best sunset spots in Santorini. 

When a good portion of the island has the same idea to do something, though, you can imagine how crazy it gets up in Oia at magic hour. 

We decided to do the opposite, and it’s not because we’re contrarians or hate sunsets. Our accommodations were closer to Fira.

After some misadventures on the island’s public buses the day prior, we didn’t want to bother with catching one from Oia at its most crowded.

Note: You shouldn’t rely on cabs or Uber on this island, either. I’ve read that there really aren’t that many, which can be doubly frustrating when there’s a surge in demand.

Starting in Oia, the furthest point on our journey, meant that we avoided the chaos in Oia post-sunset and could continue to our accommodations from Fira. Oia itself is quieter in the morning, too, as many of the tourists haven’t woken up (or arrived) yet. 

Of course, if you’re staying in Oia, you should start in Fira. You’re smart people!

First Stop: Oia

We fueled up with some yogurt and muesli at our hotel before calling an Uber to take us to Oia. Initially, we were going to take the bus, but it was coming at 9:30am, and it was 8:45am when we finished up breakfast. 

Fun fact: Uber pricing starts at $40 in Santorini, no matter how far you’re going, but in this case, it would have cost the same to call a taxi from the hotel. That’s generally the preferred thing to do, though, as Uber really rips you off on the short rides. 

We didn’t want to change buses, either, which would have been necessary in Fira. Our Uber dropped us off near the pedestrian-only zone in town, and we started to wander.

You’ll want to start your day early here, as tourists typically arrive around 10am or so. Get there before them and you’ll have more opportunities for photos that aren’t overcrowded by duck lips. 

I know this because we started our morning a little late, and the tourists had already found us. They were already queuing up for photos by the time we got to what Instagram has dubbed the “money shots.”

Here are a few picturesque spots to check out while in Oia:

• Castle of Oia: Also known as Agios Nikolaos Castle, these are the ruins of a Venetian castle perched at the edge of town. The views from here of the whitewashed cliffside buildings are quite good.
• Views of Santorini and Caldera: This is a scenic viewpoint labeled exactly like this on your Google maps, offering an unobstructed view of Santorini’s volcanic cliffs. It wasn’t as busy here as some of the other photo stops.
• Picturesque Blue Dome Santorini: This is one of Santorini’s most iconic photo spots. The blue-domed church framed by Santorini’s classic whitewashed buildings is the postcard pic, but you’ll likely need to wait in line for it. We didn’t. 
• The Virgin Mary of the Akathist Hymn Church: This historic Orthodox church features beautiful frescoes and traditional Cycladic architecture. You’ll find it just off the main pedestrian path in Oia.
• Oia Windmill: There are several windmills in Oia, but this is likely the one you’ve seen in guides. All of Oia’s windmills were once used to grind grain, and now serve as symbols of the island, especially at sunset.

That said, it’s just as nice exploring the alleyways without a huge plan. We didn’t walk down (and up) the donkey steps to Ammoudi Bay, although that is something people do. We knew we would need to keep our legs fresh enough to make the mileage to Fira.

Note: Please don’t ride the donkeys. The batch we passed looked pretty skinny, and I can’t imagine how awful it is carrying people up and down those stairs in the summertime. 

In hindsight, grabbing something quick to eat here as a late breakfast or brunch wouldn’t have been a bad move, as it was Polish dinnertime by the time we did get lunch. 

Bring snacks anyway. We had some Pringles, nuts, and water with us that really saved us. Hats and sunscreen are a must, too, as it’s all very exposed along the way.

Stops Between Oia and Imerovigli

The hike officially begins once you leave the ped-only section of Oia. If you’re having a hard time finding it, head off to the right at the Saint Suites Oia. You’ll pass a few more hotels and convenience stores that offer you a last chance at snacks and water.

Now the real work begins, as it’s a slow crawl to the next batch of civilization. I’m being dramatic here. It is really beautiful with the water on both sides and the caldera, especially because most of the tourists in Oia won’t be following you.

The cruise ships down there make things a little less atmospheric, but it’s hard to deny the appeal of this walk as you start and the breadth of the caldera becomes apparent.

You likely won’t need your map apps for this bit in between. There’s really only one main path, and any detours will take you to brief dead ends that are easy to remedy.

You’ll also see intermittent signage pointing you to Fira (or Oia, if you’re walking the opposite way).

Now, this is where you make stops where the vibes move you.

I’ve read a lot of guides about this walk, and many mention churches and chapels of note that won’t appear on your map apps. One is widely referred to as “Panagia Church,” but I don’t think that’s accurate.

The other is the Assumption of the Virgin Mary Holy Chapel, which may be accurate if online images are to be believed. Neither will appear on your maps, but you will pass by a small chapel at a scenic high point that offers a shady spot to rest.

You’ll know it when you see it, as it’ll be the first stop with shade on this stretch.

You’ll also pass a stretch of lava fields, an atmospheric contrast to the whitewashed towns in the distance.

We only knew what we were looking at because we came across a tour talking about the volcanic rock formations. As there was no shade here, we quickly moved on.

If the snack shop is open — it was on our hike! — you’ll be able to take a more official rest here and replenish water and snacks. They don’t have much there, but they sell electrolyte drinks, a peanut brittle thing, and a limited amount of alcohol.

I’d advise against boozing it up at the snack bar, as there is quite a bit of work left to do!

You’ll need to navigate a stretch of road at this point, but it’s short-lived. Drivers on the island can be a little wild, so make sure you’re hugging the shoulder.

You’ll pass by the Church of the Prophet Elijah, or Profitis Ilias Church, as it’s described on some blogs. You can stop briefly to enjoy the triple-bell tower and blue accents. 

This is where we witnessed a cruise ship passenger realize that Oia wasn’t 20 minutes away, but maybe about 90 minutes away. He was alarmed, to say the least. Educate yourselves, people!

Imerovigli

Imerovigli felt like a godsend at this point. We had been surviving on our bag of snacks up to this point, and a real meal was in order. The town has lots of options for leisurely lunches, but as it was getting late in the day, we wanted something speedy. 

Our pick was Let’s Eat, a popular gyro restaurant. We scarfed down plates of chicken gyro pitas and souvlaki at prices that seemed high for the casual vibes.

It was tasty, but they’re definitely taking advantage of the fact that people are coming through here starving.

From here, we took in a few more scenic stops before adding time and effort to our journey with Skaros Rock. I’ll get into that in a minute.

Here are a few Imerovigli viewpoints:

• Agios Georgios Chapel: This small, whitewashed chapel perched on the caldera edge offers great views over the Aegean and nearby Skaros Rock. It’s a peaceful stop slightly off the main path.
• Church of the Resurrection of the Lord: Also known as the Anastasis Church, this one is known for its blue dome and classic Cycladic design. The view from here overlooks the caldera, volcano, and Fira in the distance.
• Imerovigli Viewpoint: This is one of (if not THE) highest point along the caldera rim, offering panoramic views of Oia, Fira, the volcano, and nearby islands. It has no name, so this is how you’ll find it on your maps.

Optional Stop: Skaros Rock 

I’m calling this one optional because your legs are probably pretty tired at this point, and you’ll add between 45 minutes to an hour to your hike with the addition of Skaros Rock.

Skaros Rock is a dramatic, rocky promontory that was once the site of a medieval fortress. Only ruins remain today.

You’ll get the expected panoramic views here, but you’ve been getting those all day. I didn’t find the views up there any more striking than all that you’ve already experienced. 

If you’re a completionist, you’ll want to make this happen. Just be warned that there are SO many steps down to get there, meaning SO many steps to return. 

To get there, you’ll follow the stairs that go near Agios Georgios Chapel, not off to the right. You’ll understand that note when you see the path. Once you’re at the base of the rock, there’s more climbing, although this isn’t as challenging as the full return trip. 

Fun fact: Around the back, you can descend further to see the Church Mother of Lord Theoskepasti and its panoramic sea views. Brian climbed down, but I didn’t have it in me. Do whatever feels right.

I’m not sure the climbing is worth it after what you’ve already seen along the way. If you suffer from FOMO and see this thing in the distance, you may want to get yourself out there anyway. I don’t blame you. It hit me, too, but my legs regretted this one after. 

READ MORE: I’m no stranger to epic hikes, even when they freak me out. Check out a rundown of one of the scariest!

I’ll tell you what was worth it, though. Brian got us smoothies back at the top of the hill to reward our efforts. Ice cream would also be appropriate here.

Firostefani

You’re entering the home stretch. Once you’re done with Imerovigli, you’ll hit a scenic village that sits just a few minutes from Fira: Firostefani.

This is your last bit of calm before the storm, as Firostefani is more peaceful and much less touristy than what you’re about to see in Fira. 

I know you’re probably getting antsy at this point, but snap a photo or two at the Church of Agios Gerasimos and its bright blue dome before you scoot.

Last Stop: Fira

You’ve made it! Within 10 minutes or so, you’ll arrive at the edge of Fira. Take photos wherever your camera takes you. There are lots of shops here, cafes, and more tourist-heavy stuff, although it didn’t seem nearly as busy as it did in Oia in the morning.

Here are some spots that make for excellent pics:

• Three Bells of Fira: We caught this one from below, which was charming and all, but the iconic view is from above. That’s where you’ll get the blue dome, white bell tower, and caldera backdrop that align so perfectly for your Instagram profile. 
• Church of Agios Stylianos: I liked this one for its bold orange dome. It was a pop of color against all of that blue and white. This one is tucked away along the caldera path, making for an expected shot as you explore.
• Church of St. Mark the Evangelist: This church stands out thanks to its twin light blue bell towers and soft pastel details. It’s another bit of architectural contrast to the surrounding whitewashed village.
• Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist: I really liked the clock tower on this one, but you’ll likely need to wait your turn for photos. This Roman Catholic cathedral features a yellow-and-white baroque-style exterior, too.

Once you’re done snapping your photos, you can reward yourself for the trek with an overpriced wine or cocktail with a view.

We indulged at the V Lounge Cafe and Cocktail Bar. There was plenty of room at the bar with some plush seating, but it was still well before sunset. I’m sure things get a little wilder and way more competitive for the best seats the closer it is to magic hour.

You can snag a bus from here — most buses on the island go through Fira — or take a cable car down if you’re heading back to your ship. For those who want to take in the shore down below, I’ve read that the line for cable cars gets up to two hours long. 

We were about half an hour from our hotel at this point, so we walked along some not-so-friendly paths and/or alongside roads to get back to your place. This isn’t the most walkable place we’ve visited.

The hike from Oia to Fira is worth the effort.

I haven’t been shy about my thoughts on Santorini, but this was a great way to lose some of the crowds on the island. Going this direction is especially nice because most hikers do it the opposite way for those sunset views at the end.

I’d argue that standing elbow to elbow with hundreds of others who had the same idea doesn’t result in a memorable sunset, but what do I know?

While you could likely finish the full trek within a few hours, you could also spend the day on this walk, especially if you come upon some tasty treats. 

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