Hiking the Narrows From the Bottom-Up: A Guide & Review

We didn’t make hiking the Narrows a priority until our second time at Zion National Park. We had a limited amount of time in the park that first time around, and the water levels were just too high for us to get anywhere good. 

We limited ourselves to a stroll down the Riverside Walk and pondered what could have been.

On our second trip through the Utah parks, we decided we had to do the dang thing. We rented the gear and hit the Virgin River with quite a bit of gusto, finishing nearly 10 miles in about four hours.

If you’re ready to make this bucket list adventure a reality, I’ve got the goods on how to make it happen. I’ll include thoughts on whether the Narrows are worth your time, too, just in case you’re on the fence.

What are the Narrows?

The Narrows are the narrowest part of Zion Canyon in Utah’s Zion National Park. You’ll be getting your feet wet in the north fork of the Virgin River.

Fun fact: This is not the same Virgin River depicted in the Netflix show starring Alexandra Breckenridge. My mother has binged every season, which I imagine is the case for many mothers.

Is hiking the Narrows worth it?

Hiking the Narrows is absolutely worth it. In fact, it may just be one of the most incredible things you do.

There aren’t many hikes out there that offer the unique experience of wading through a narrow slot canyon surrounded by canyon walls and a flowing river.

It’s challenging but so rewarding, especially if you’ve been waiting a while to make it happen, as we were.

Planning Your Mileage

The complete bottom-up Narrows hike is about 9.4 miles long round-trip. This doesn’t include the two-mile round-trip stroll along the Riverside Walk that you’ll need to tack onto your adventure. 

That mileage reflects a hike to Big Springs. We made it to the end of Wall Street for a total of just under 10 miles, including the Riverside Walk. Many hikers stop at the beginning of Wall Street for six miles in the water.

There’s no shame in whatever you decide to do.

The top-down Narrows hike is 16 miles long. Some aggressive individuals choose to complete this approach as a day hike. Others extend the river trek into a two-day overnight backpacking trip. 

No matter what you decide, if you want to have yourself an adventure of epic proportions, you’ll need a Wilderness Permit for the pleasure of doing so.

Fun fact: If you want to add canyoneering to your Zion exploits, the Orderville Canyon will have you rappelling in a land of slot canyons and dramatic gulches. 

Planning Your Hiking Time

It takes around four hours to hike The Narrows at a decent pace. The National Park Service suggests giving yourself at least six hours if you’re hiking the full bottom-up Narrows hike. 

We made it to the end of Wall Street and back in just under four hours, so apparently, we were really zooming out there. That included a snack stop and numerous photo stops. I can see how we could have made it five hours if we included an extended lunch.

If you’re taking the top-down approach — don’t forget that one is permit-required — expect to spend anywhere from 10-14 hours in the river.

READ MORE: There are more incredible hikes at Zion. Check out my guide to the park following multiple visits.

How to Hike the Narrows From the Bottom Up

Getting to the Narrows for a bottom-up hike is fairly easy.

In the summer months, you can take the Zion Canyon Shuttle to stop 9, the Temple of Sinawava. You don’t need reservations to ride the shuttle.

If you’re starting at the visitor center at 1 Zion Park Blvd., it should only take about half an hour to get to your stop.

From there, you’ll have an easy mile walk along a mostly paved path. This is the paved Riverside Walk. You’ll know you’re at the end when you see folks wading into the Virgin River. 

You’ll take the same shuttle back to the visitor center or wherever you’re going next on your Zion adventure, but expect packed buses on your return trip.

You don’t need a permit to hike the Narrows if you’re here for the bottom-up hike. You do need a permit for the top-down route.

Beginners can hike the Narrows on the bottom-up approach. You don’t spend the entirety of the hike in the water, with the riverbank giving you a reprieve from the resistance you’ll feel in the river upstream half the time you’re out.

If it feels too hard at any point, you can certainly turn back. That’s what makes hiking the Narrows so forgiving and appropriate for hikers at all levels.

If you’re hiking the top-down route, your journey will be more complicated. Assuming you’ve already reserved your permit, you’ll start your hike at the Chamberlain’s Ranch Trailhead or the North Fork Trailhead.

Hikers who have accomplished the 16-mile hike suggest you book a private shuttle to get you there the morning of your hike, especially if you’re trying to get it done in one day. 

The reasoning is this: You’ll be finishing up the hike along with all of the less impressive hikers like me at the Temple of Sinawava rather than where you started at the ranch.

To make things even easier, park your car at the visitor center in the morning before getting on your private shuttle.

When to Hike the Narrows

The morning is the best time of day to hike the Narrows. It never gets too hot in the canyon, even in the peak of summer, but you’ll contend with fewer crowds the earlier you start.

We got our feet into the river by about 7:40am, and I would recommend starting even earlier. The river was packed on the return, leading to some delays at river crossings.

As far as seasons, the best time to hike the Narrows is in the summer and into early fall. The water levels will be just right, and the cool water will feel pretty great on even the hottest day.

If you want to pair your visit with the best season for Zion hikes, early fall is your best bet.

Let’s take a closer look at the Narrows month-by-month:

That all said, there are forces at work here that you can’t control, even if you arrive in June expecting a great time in the Virgin River.

You should NOT hike the Narrows during flash flood conditions, which occur during late summer thunderstorms or snowmelt in spring, and when water levels are too high.

You’ll see a visual on the way to the river at the start of your hike that measures the risk of flash flood warnings that day and any other concerns. Generally, if the park service is allowing hikers in, you should feel pretty safe. 

What to Wear When Hiking the Narrows

Deciding what to wear on the Narrows trail is part of the adventure. Bringing along the right hiking gear will ensure that your trek is comfortable, safe, and enjoyable. Let’s start with sticks.

You don’t need a walking stick for The Narrows, but it’s highly recommended. I own a pair of excellent trekking poles that have done a great job on all kinds of elevation hikes over the years, but this isn’t that.

Your best bet will be an actual stick. Any Zion outfitter near the park will include a wooden walking stick as part of their hiking packages.

Note: The best advice I can offer for Narrows hiking gear is this: Rent gear from an outfitter in Springdale.

We got the summer package from Zion Outfitters near the entrance to the park.

That included a pair of canyoneering boots that offered more traction than any pair of hiking shoes I’ve ever owned, a walking stick, and special socks. Neoprene socks for hiking the Narrows are pretty clutch to keep your feet warm in the chilly water. 

You can place your order online and pick up your gear the evening before your trek so that you’re ready to rock in the morning.

Note: You can hike The Narrows in sneakers, water shoes, or any shoes that you please. That doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. 

The shoes to wear hiking the Narrows should offer you some grip that you just won’t get in water shoes, your Keds, or your bare feet. I’m not even being saucy with that last bit. 

I saw a youth navigating the river in his bare feet, and I can only imagine what those foot pads looked like by the end.

A pair of waterproof hiking boots will probably work fine, but we loved the grip on our rental boots from Zion Outfitters.

No, I don’t get any kind of kickback from them.  I just really like the ease of not having to worry about blisters and soaked shoes. That’s on top of feeling safer in footwear that gives me traction on those slick rocks I’ll be maneuvering. 

Apart from footwear, hiking shorts and moisture-wicking clothing are good. Generally, jorts aren’t great, along with anything that will weigh you down in the water.

What to Pack Hiking The Narrows

I’ll leave backpacking lists to the experts if you’re planning on a multi-day hike rather than one day on the bottom-up trail.

For your day hike, in addition to the gear that’s already on your body and your trusty walking stick, bring along the following:

• Daypack: We like our Osprey packs because they’re lightweight with enough compartments for everything we need. The water level was low enough that a waterproof pack wasn’t necessary. Use your judgment here. 
• Water: I only got through about half of my 1.5-liter water bladder, so I know I was probably dehydrated. I was likely worried about having to tinkle while in the river, which I did not do because I leave no trace. 
• Snacks: You’re working hard today. You want to fuel your adventure. We brought along a full lunch in our packs, but didn’t get around to it. There was much jerky, though, along with a juicy peach that really hit at the end of Wall Street.
• Sunscreen: I always apply sunscreen before a big hike. You’ll have a decent amount of shade thanks to the canyon, but you may need to reapply if you’re hiking later in the day.
• Waterproof case: If you’re worried about dropping your smartphone into the Virgin River, you may want to invest in a waterproof case. You can also just stick it in a sealed sandwich baggie like a budget boss.

A Note on Bacteria in the Water

The National Park Service monitors levels of cyanobacteria and cyanotoxins in the waters of Zion National Park, including the Virgin River.

We were at a “Warning Advisory” level during our hike, which has been quite common over the last few years when the weather gets hot.

The risk-averse may be dissuaded from hiking the Narrows due to the threat from these toxic blooms. Possible health effects range from skin rash to abdominal pain to kidney damage, so I’m not going to keep things too light here.

The warnings online and at the mouth of the Virgin River didn’t keep us from our Narrows Zion hike, as we knew about the precautions to take ahead of our trek:

• Don’t drink the water. I hate to sound too obvious here, but drinking harmful toxins is the best way to fall ill from those harmful toxins. Don’t rely on the water filter thing you got from REI, either. Bring along filtered water and plenty of it.
• Don’t dunk your head in the water. These toxins can enter the body through your mouth, eyes, and nose. If you’re feeling hot at any point during your hike and that sounds all kinds of refreshing, suck it up.
• Reconsider travel if it just rained. The risk of exposure to cyanotoxins increases during and after rainstorms. The park service may shut the hike down anyway after a precipitation event due to the water levels, but it’s important to note.
• Reconsider travel if you’re dealing with open wounds. The toxins can also enter your body through open wounds. I’m not talking paper cuts, but if you have a giant gash in your leg from a biking accident, it’s probably best you tend to that.
• Keep pets away from the river water. Fido can’t come along on your Narrows hike, but there are dog-friendly trails and off-leash paths along Zion’s waterways. Monitor your pets if you visit places like the George Barker River Park.

What to Expect Hiking the Narrows

This hike is well-documented on social media and in the minds of friends and family who have done it before you. I’m still going to go ahead and add my own thoughts here, as not everything I’ve read includes the goods as I see fit to share them. 

So what’s it like hiking the Narrows in Zion?

The water level varies A LOT.

On our summer Narrows hike, we hiked through water that was ankle-deep, water that hit our shins, and water that nearly hit our waists. I’ll call that last bit “crotch-deep.” 

The water levels vary so much from day to day that it’s impossible to predict what you’ll contend with on your hike based on reviews you read online alone. Don’t trust recent reviews on AllTrails or what you heard on social media.

Hiking the Narrows hike is rated as hard by AllTrails and the National Park Service. If you’re hiking in the summer and early fall when the water levels drop, it becomes a more moderate hike. 

The length of the hike puts some hikers off the Narrows, but this is one that you can tweak to your liking and hiking level. 

If you want to know how challenging water levels will make your hike, pay attention to the current flow rate. 

Water flow rates vary A LOT. 

The water flow rates at the Narrows are something you can actually prepare for thanks to monitoring from the U.S. Department of the Interior.

In addition to excess snow melt, the park service may also shut things down if the flow rates are above 150 cubic feet per second.

I’ll be honest. I don’t know if I know what this means. 

I do know that on our hiking day, the flow rate was 39 cubic feet per second. This is considered a pretty easy day as far as the current is concerned. We felt some pull in more rapid sections of the river, but at no point did I feel like I’d be swept away.

The higher the number, the more resistance you’ll feel against your legs, and the harder your hike will be. The visitor center posts water flow rates daily if you forget to check online before your trek.

You’ll spend more time on land than you think.

I assumed we’d be in the water for the vast majority of our hike, but that wasn’t the case. I’d almost say it was 50/50 as far as time on the riverbanks and time in the Virgin River.

When you see dry land, go for it. You’ll likely avoid the deepest water and give your legs a break from the water resistance. Take advantage of larger swaths of land for snack time or a picnic lunch. 

This hike gets thick with humans.

Much like at any of our most popular national parks, this one gets crowded the longer you wait to get started. If you start early enough, you should find quite a bit of solitude on your Narrows hike, especially if you’re hiking beyond about a mile.

If you’re with a fairly speedy hiker like Brian, you’ll gain some natural distance in between groups, too.

Your return trip will likely be a different story.

Sometime around 10am, what seemed to be the majority of Zion National Park decided to start their trek through the Virgin River. I’m talking about large family groups, packs of wild youths, and ladies in floppy hats.

You may have to wait in line to pass through narrow areas of the riverbank and deal with speed bumps while taking photos at natural river crossings. Exercise patience and try to appreciate where you are, no matter how annoyed you feel.

If you started early enough, you hopefully had a less crowded experience on the way in.

READ MORE: Traveling elsewhere in Utah? I’ve seen a lot of this state. Read my Utah guide!

The highlights are impressive.

Expect to be amazed as you hike in and along the Virgin River.

Here are a few Narrows attractions you should expect along the way on a bottom-up hike:

• Mystery Falls: It may just be a trickle in the summertime, but the 110-foot Mystery Falls is still a delight as you kick things off on your Narrows hiking adventure.
• Veiled Falls: This baby waterfall requires a spur trail off the main river trail. It isn’t the most impressive site, so if you’re short on time, you can continue on for the real goods.
• Wall Street: Most turn back at the start of Wall Street, the narrowest part. I urge you to reach the fork where Wall Street begins, just past the Grotto Alcove. The endpoint is a large log with fern-covered canyon walls on either side.
• Floating Rock: This 45-foot boulder signals you’re entering the thick of it along Wall Street. Take your photo next to it, just like Brian di,d for some perspective on how small you actually are in this magical place.
• Big Springs: If you make it all the way to the end of the bottom-up Narrows hike, you’ll turn around at Big Springs. Beyond that point, you need a Wilderness permit.

You’ll see some silliness.

I’m not even talking about that barefooted kid here, although that seemed pretty darn silly.

You’ll encounter young people high-stepping it aggressively enough that they splash everyone in their path. You’ll see people in waist-deep water out of stubbornness alone. Maybe they’re peeing.

If you need to go number two, by the way, Leave No Trace principles apply. You’ll need to pack your crap out in a baggie as you would for Fido back at your hotel.

Along the way, you may also wonder how many kids break limbs from climbing the mammoth rocks along the river. The park service says leg fractures are the most common injuries here, by the way.

The views are astonishing.

I’m just not sure if I want to hike the Narrows again. Hear me out.

The views of those narrowing canyon walls are astonishing the first time you see them. The hike would definitely still be all kinds of fun the second time around, but I think I’d be missing some of the wonders of my first hike through.

If you ask nicely, I’ll come along with you, though.

Where to Stay to Hike the Narrows

For Zion, Springdale offers the closest accommodations for access to the park. You can literally walk to Zion from Springdale or take the Springdale Shuttle.

We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Springdale on our first trip to Zion. Our stay was comfortable, if expensive.

We stayed at La Quinta by Wyndham La Verkin on our second trip. If you’re traveling with pets, it doesn’t get much better than La Quinta properties. They don’t charge you an extra fee.

Want more options? Use the map below to peruse accommodations near Zion:

The Narrows is one of my favorite hikes of all time.

I’m not even being hyperbolic here. We’ve hiked a lot of epic hikes, some of which even freaked me out.

While I was nervous to tackle the Narrows, it was (mostly) pure joy from start to finish once we hit the river. I only qualify that a bit because things got crowded toward the end, but I had to remind myself that these people were here to do something awesome, too.

You’ll be talking about this one for a long time after you do it. I know I haven’t shut up about it.