The Alkmaar cheese market is a historic cheese trading event in Alkmaar, North Holland, where traditional buying and weighing rituals are reenacted in spring and summer.
If you’ve never seen wheels of Gouda carried off by men jogging in perfect synchrony, you haven’t lived.
OK, that’s a bit of hyperbole. I wouldn’t call it an unmissable experience, but the Alkmaar cheese market is still genuinely entertaining, and it’s been running in some form for over 400 years.
We visited with little context beyond that history. But we left with a better understanding of why it still exists in the Netherlands today, and how to approach it with realistic expectations. Here’s everything you need to know before you go.
Quick Tips for Your Alkmaar Visit
Your Flight: Most travelers will arrive at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Use Skyscanner to track flights to Amsterdam. Love those deals? Subscribe to Going.
Your Accommodations: We were traveling from our accommodations in North Holland, but browse Booking.com or Hotels.com for more options. Vrbo is my Airbnb alternative.
Your Ride: Alkmaar is easy to reach by train from Amsterdam, but having a car can be useful if you’re exploring more of North Holland. If you’re renting, book in advance.
Top Spots: You’re here for the cheese market, but while you’re in Alkmaar, stroll the canal and pop by the Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar for its collection of Dutch Golden Age art.
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Is the Alkmaar cheese market worth visiting?
The Alkmaar cheese market is worth visiting once. It’s a genuine spectacle.
The sight of the Waagplein covered in those golden cheese wheels and the carriers jogging in formation is all real. These aren’t actors, and the guild and its traditions are a part of the town’s history.
That said, it is very touristy. The surrounding stalls lean heavily into souvenir territory, and the square can feel overwhelmingly crowded on peak summer Fridays.
The market itself wraps up at 1pm, so it’s best as part of your visit to Alkmaar rather than a standalone destination.
Post-market, walk along the canals, find a café, or have a meal that isn’t cheese samples at the booths inside. Alkmaar is a cute Dutch town that tends to get overshadowed by its Friday attraction.
A Brief History of the Alkmaar Cheese Market
Alkmaar’s connection to the cheese trade goes back to 1365, when the city was granted official weighing rights and its first cheese scale. By 1612, four scales were in operation here, a sign of just how dramatically trade had grown.
The exact date of the first formal cheese market is lost to history. Documents confirm it was definitely operating by 1622, but the Cheese Carriers’ Guild, or the Kaasdragersgilde if you’re nasty, was founded on June 17, 1593.
That suggests the market was already well-established by then.
During the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century, the market boomed. The Waagplein, or weighing square, was expanded eight times over two centuries. At its peak, cheese markets were held four days a week in Alkmaar.
Today, the market is a preservation of those centuries-old traditions. It’s performed with as much authenticity as they can muster in those straw hats every Friday morning from spring through autumn.
When is the cheese market in Alkmaar?
2026 dates: Friday, March 27-Friday, September 25
The Alkmaar cheese market takes place every Friday from the last Friday of March to the last Friday of September, from 10am-1pm. You’ll find it on the Waagplein in Alkmaar’s town centre.
During July and August, there are also special Tuesday evening cheese markets from 7-9pm. These tend to be a little less hectic if you don’t love big crowds, but they’re not quiet by any means.
A version for children runs in July and August on Friday mornings from 10:30-11am. These events are ticketed, as a guide takes the kids to parts of the market not open to the public. Kids use the cheese scales themselves and earn a certificate post-visit.
Fun fact: The market opens promptly with the ringing of a bell by a celebrity or notable guest. Sometimes it’s a Dutch public figure, like a royal.
What to Expect at the Alkmaar Cheese Market
Alkmaar’s cheese market is a spectacle, but it’s based on rituals that have been happening across four centuries.
The Setup (from 7am)
Long before visitors arrive, the zetters (setters) arrive at Waagplein at 7am to unload roughly 30,000 kilos of Gouda cheese. That’s around 2,400 individual wheels! They haul them off lorries and arrange them in long rows across the square.
The Opening Bell (10am)
At exactly 10am, a bell rings to officially open the market. The “cheese father,” or guild leader, identifiable by his silver-tipped cane, has already given a roll call speech to the carriers by this point.
Fun fact: Late arrivals were historically fined, and cheese carriers who broke the rules were publicly recorded by market officials as part of the guild system that still shapes the event today.
Cheese Inspection
Inspectors called keurmeesters examine each wheel carefully by cutting it, drilling out a core sample, smelling it, tasting it, and testing its elasticity to determine fat content.
This reenacts the inspection process that historically determined quality and price on the square.
The Hand-Clap Trade (Handjeklap)
Once inspected, buyers and sellers negotiate prices using handjeklap, a traditional ritual of clapping hands and calling out prices back and forth.
There’s no paperwork, just hands and voices, so hopefully no one loses their place because I know I’m not that coordinated.
The Cheese Carriers in Action
Once a price is agreed, the kaasdragers go to work. Dressed in white outfits and straw hats in red, yellow, green, or blue, depending on which of the four forwarding companies they belong to, they load wooden barrows, or berries.
Cheese carriers haul loads of up to around 160 kilograms (about eight wheels) at a distinctive jogging pace across the square to the Waaggebouw, or Weigh House.
The synchronized jog is known as the kaasdragersdribbel, or the “cheese carriers’ dripple.” It’s all done to a specific rhythm developed over centuries to keep the heavy barrows as steady as possible.
Watching two carriers trot across the square in perfect unison is pretty funny, to be honest, but it’s all based on tradition and done this way for a reason.
READ MORE: If you love destinations rooted in tradition, visit Cancale, France, for its oyster-farming ways!
Weighing
Inside the Waaggebouw, the cheese is weighed on centuries-old scales by the tasman, named for the leather purse he wears. The guild’s motto is intense: “Een valse Waghe is de Heere een gruwel,” or “A false balance is an abhorrence in the eyes of the Lord.”
We’re still talking about cheese, right?
The Canal Boats
At some point, you’ll want to step away from the Waagplein toward the canal. During market hours, boats full of wheels of cheese drift along the waterway as a nod to the days when farmers transported cheese by barge rather than lorry.
It’s a quieter, more photogenic vantage point than the packed square, and honestly, this was my favorite part of the whole morning. While still busy, hanging out by the canal near the market felt like a bit of an escape from the chaos inside.
The Market Around the Market
A lively craft and food market with Dutch poffertjes (mini pancakes), herring sandwiches, clogs, farm cheeses for sale, and various souvenirs surrounds the action.
Since I’m Polish, I never miss an opportunity to eat pickled herring. Eating it with onions and pickles while watching the carriers jog past felt very on-brand, but it’s also a part of Dutch tradition.
Known as haring in Dutch, herring has been a staple of Dutch street food since the Middle Ages. Today, it’s most often served in chunks on a little tray with diced onions and sliced gherkins, or tucked into a soft roll as a broodje haring. That’s how I had it.
The Alkmaar Cheese Carriers’ Guild
The Kaasdragersgilde is one of the oldest surviving guilds in the Netherlands, founded on June 17, 1593. It currently consists of 30 carriers plus the cheese father for a total of 31 active members.
Getting in isn’t easy. You have to wait for a member to step down, and members can serve until death.
Note: Active carrying stops at 67, just in case you’re worried about their lower back pain.
The process also includes a two-year apprenticeship as a noodhulp, or emergency aid, before earning a nickname and full membership.
The guild also has strict rules. There’s no swearing, carriers must address each other by nicknames, and anyone whose white uniform isn’t pristine on market day faces a fine.
The fines collected go to sponsor a school in Alkmaar, Suriname, a reminder of the Netherlands’ colonial history.
How to Get to the Alkmaar Cheese Market
We drove to Alkmaar from our accommodations in North Holland. The town is accessible via the A9 highway, and we had no issues parking in a paid lot nearby. The town center itself is car-free, so you will need to walk to get to the market.
Alkmaar is also well connected by rail. Direct trains run from Amsterdam Centraal approximately four times per hour, and arrive in Alkmaar in about 35-40 minutes. From the station, the Waagplein is a 10-15 minute walk.
How long do you need at the Alkmaar cheese market?
The market itself probably warrants 1-1.5 hours. In that amount of time, you can see the bell ringing, watch the carriers in action, try some cheese samples, grab a herring sandwich, and soak up the atmosphere. After that, you’ll have seen the main show.
Note: We were with our anxious dog, so that hour mark was likely pushing it.
Alkmaar itself is worth exploring beyond the market. The town has beautiful canals that are pretty quiet on market days…since that’s where all of the tourists are. You could spend half the day here, even without the cheese market, and have a nice time.
Tips for Visiting the Alkmaar Cheese Market
Before you visit Alkmaar, here are a few tips to keep your sanity intact at the cheese market:
- Arrive early. The market is at its best right at the 10am opening, and the best viewing spots go fast. Aim to be on the Waagplein by 9:30-9:45am if you want to see the full spectacle.
- Arrive by train if at all possible. We didn’t have issues finding a spot within the lot near the market, but if you don’t like maneuvering errant pedestrians and cyclists on a busy Friday morning, the train is likely less stressful.
- Sample the cheese (politely). Many stalls offer free tastings. Take them up on it, but don’t hog the vendors. If there’s a crowd of a dozen people behind you, you don’t need seven samples, especially if you’re not buying.
- Get a herring sandwich. Alkmaar’s surrounding market stalls serve the real thing, Dutch herring with onions and pickles, eaten the traditional way. My Polish, herring-loving heart was singing.
- Consider leaving nervous dogs at home. We know better now, as our pup didn’t have a great time. The square gets packed, and the noise level is significant. This is an important consideration if you have sensitive kids in tow, too.
- Don’t spend your time only on the square. The surrounding streets and canals are much more enjoyable than the market itself once you’ve watched a few rounds of cheese-carrying.
Other Things to Do in Alkmaar
Once you’re done at the market, there’s more to do in Alkmaar to occupy you for a few hours:
- Walk the canals. A leisurely walk along the Alkmaar canals was a highlight for us, as it was so much more peaceful than the market.
- Book a canal cruise. Seeing Alkmaar from the water gives you a completely different perspective, with views of historic buildings and bridges you’d miss on foot.
- Visit the Kaasmuseum Alkmaar (Dutch Cheese Museum). Housed in the historic Waaggebouw, this museum offers a deeper understanding of Dutch cheese history.
- Stop by Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar. This museum showcases local history and art, giving more context to the region beyond its famous cheese trade.
- See the Grote Kerk (St. Laurenskerk). This striking Gothic church sits in the town center. Opening hours vary depending on events, concerts, or exhibitions.
- Snap a photo of the Molen van Piet. This is a postcard-perfect 18th-century windmill just outside the historic center.
- Do some shopping in the old town. This isn’t usually us, but if you’re here to spend some coin, Alkmaar is actually considered one of the Netherlands’ better shopping cities.
Alkmaar is very walkable, but if you’d like to book a walking tour for a more guided experience, this is a good option.
Where to Stay Near the Alkmaar Cheese Market
We were in Oosterleek for the week, about 40 minutes from the market. That’s not super convenient, but it was a nice, quite place to stay with our dog. Check out the cabins here.
You can also stay in Alkmaar. For options in and around the historic center, use the map below:
Alkmaar Cheese Market FAQs
Is the Alkmaar cheese market free?
Yes, entry to the Waagplein and watching the cheese market is completely free. You only pay for food, drinks, or any cheese you buy.
Do I need to book tickets for the Alkmaar cheese market?
No advance tickets are required to attend the market itself. Guided tours are available through various operators, including day trips from Amsterdam, which require booking in advance.
What type of cheese is sold at the Alkmaar cheese market?
You’ll primarily see Gouda and Edam at the cheese market. You’ll find everything from young (jong) to aged (oud) varieties at the surrounding stalls, and many offer free tastings.
Is the Alkmaar cheese market suitable for children?
Yes, but it can be very crowded and noisy. A special children’s cheese market runs on Friday mornings in July and August between 10:30-11:00am, which is a nice option for families.
Can I buy cheese at the Alkmaar cheese market?
Yes! The surrounding stalls sell farm cheese, and you can often sample before you buy. The cheese traded at the center of the market is wholesale, but there’s plenty of retail on the periphery.
Visit the Alkmaar cheese market once.
It’s part spectacle, part working tradition, and a pretty entertaining window into how this corner of North Holland has been trading cheese for centuries.
Even if I wouldn’t call it an essential stop in the Netherlands, I think it’s fun to do once, especially if you’re at all invested in local cheese-related traditions. I know I am!
Seeing more of the Netherlands? Read these next:
More European cities with cheese traditions and festivals:
- How to Visit La Maison du Gruyère
- Spending the Day in in Gruyères, Switzerland
- A Detailed Guide to Rocamadour
- How to Plan a Two-Week Brittany Road Trip
- Top Things to Do in Parma, Italy
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